Probably you would ask what did I see in Kenya, where did I travel, what was Africa like? Well, for one I must say that from our group I think I saw least of those great African animals. I didn't go to national parks when others went (except Kakamega rainforest about what I already have wrote here). National parks are very expensive and truth to be said I wasn't so much interested of going to these stupid safaris where you drive in a car and make photos. I wasn't much interested of these animals who were gathered to these parks to make human civilization room to grow. This is not real Africa in these parks.. not anymore.Animals I saw had to be free. There was of course also some wildernesses where I saw some, but it actually kind of makes me sad to see documentaries about Africa, where it seems that these animals have endless fields to run. Yes in Tanzania national parks and reserves are very big, but still. Before going there I always thought that animal migrations are extremely epic through countries towards the water, but it is impossible. But seeing any animal wasn't my greatest interest anyway. I don't care about them. Africa is much more, exactly like Estonia isn't just wolves and bears that are nowdays so rare elsewhere in most of the Europe. Seeing some animals was more like a nice sidesight. But even in nature I was more excited to visit different parts of the country, see different climate, landforms, that wonder how diverse can one country be: palmbeaches, really immense fields with weird yet mighty baobab trees, rift valley about what ETV is showing a documentary now (this satuday last part will be shown), middle plateau with acacia "forests" and also greatest population, highlands that are in some way like places here with cunifer trees, yet along these are still also palms, cactuses, acacias, aloes etc.. and lots of blooms everywhere.. and of course northern drylands, deserts or half deserts with only sand, thorned bushes and cactuses. And what was best, for a boy from such flatland as Estonia, of course high hills and mountains. Even small hills with cliffs that when you climb them, don't seem so small anymore at all. I adore these hills and mountains. They can even cause certain optical illusions. And what sights when you reach the top. Sometimes on top I thought about the first men on these wild lands. It is a wonderful world there, true wonder of nature. But even this without humans and different social and cultural experiences wouldn't have been what I was looking for. Well, sometimes my heart have desired to travel to some place of the world still untouched by humans or at least with very primitive cultures, but actually already Kenya gave me good enough feeling of different world where nature is not same as here and neither is human civilization. Over time I have grown tired of this shit in Europe, and even if shit is everywhere, then I liked Kenya as it was different. More than this, there I felt something that said - feel everything around you, don't worry, be at peace and be rested. There really is something extremely calming. I can't say that it wouldn't be crazy, totally crazy world, with lots of noise, lots of interaction, weird human behaviour, but still somehow it relaxes you. Even most cruelest fate, most painful events can't ruin it. Ok, and anyway I knew that I will not find exactly a paradise there. I knew that instead of freely roaming elephants I see poor people, problems with country's infrastructure and such other things. I already tuned my mind to it before going and therefore I wasn't disappointed about anything. And really, ethno-cultural and modern-cultural exploration can be as interesting as exploring the wild. Not to mention simple socializing with local people.
Most of our group basically avoided big cities and didn't like Eldoret much either. I actually liked cities with all their good and bad sides. Places with different size and places in different sides of the country are again so marvelously diverse. Getting to know the life in cities, towns and also villages, that is what I call direct contact with the country and its people. That is how you really live into the strange culture. Imagine being in a big city like Mombasa all alone, away from everyone you know and even not have any contact with any other white peole, talk with locals, go to have a lunch with three moslem man to their house simply by letting off all your fears, trusting them as it is only way you can experience such things, this is worth of living. Or riding a motorbike through real ghetto town at night and listening rap music from their own radio.. living in rural areas in farmhouses made of branches, clay and mud (but about these experiences more specifically some other time), these things you never forget. Even going to clubs, shops or market at the other side of the world has greater value for me than making elephant tour. Not because of buying, but again because of simply jumping into the middle of local population, getting to know their commons, language, everything. I'm certainly more of an experimenting scientist than one who looks for fossils and imagines the past. I'm more of an artist who has to do everything by himself and touch things with his own hand than simple admirer of masterpieces that are shown to the people. Last of course literally.
Of course that kind of plunging into the unknown has great risks and sooner or later you have also understanding of the bad side of the same wonderland, but this is complete picture. Without pain there is actually no gain. Of course I got robbed four times and the first one was in the fourth day of my stay there. I saw a horrible traffic accident and people's reaction that was extremely hard to tolerate.. so terrible was that. And view of the victim - I was basically silent for the reminder of the day. I felt the stress that comes if nothing is as should be, when even emergency workers are corrupt and amazingly slow. I felt great pain because of lost love, I felt cheated, but maybe I cheated myself. I had to tolerate importunate streetkids who want money only to buy glue to sniff, prostitutes and other people who try to use you any way as they can. You will be lied so much that you really start to question the worth of this culture at some time. But when you survive the bad, you emerge stronger and smarter.. and you have tales to write to books or tell to your grandchildren. Bad things are just inseparable part of everything. You have to learn about both good and bad to respect the whole. If you truelly want to learn about culture then jump into it and learn to deal with everything and anything that may happen. Of course I would suggest that you acquire as much knowledge of things that may await you, otherwise you really may come to be a victim yourself, but then again never think that you are ever ready and knowing everything. Even when you are prepared, it just reduces the blow and helps you rise again if you have mind that doesn't crack just in first unfortunate thing you come to experience. Don't ever let one sided things to ruin your view of that country or people. When you fall to the stress because of missing your home or because of weirdnesses of that place (people being late all the time for example), then think about it, this is adventure and adventure are never supposed to be easy. Just be strong. And after a while you get used to it, things are not bothering anymore, you find ways how to avoid bad experiences, and maybe finally you come to like or love this place like I did. Maybe I will die because of that kind of foolhardiness at some day, but I just don't find any other way to get what I need. Maybe you didn't know, but I'm actually also adrenaline junky.
Yes, I risked a lot, with my healt, with my life, material security and psychological balance, and I fucking like what came out of it. I found much more in Africa than I knew I was even looking for. I don't know how much I'm now a changed man, but at least I got lots of new ideas. I even want to change my life basically 180 degrees. Ok, we'll see what comes out of that. I think I found out for myself what is a human and I found new pieces of my own soul. I guess I'm changed, if not so clearly for others then anyway for myself.
When I said that I probably traveled least of our group, then again I traveled alone I think much more than others. This is actually how it should be done. Kind of only way to find out the true face and essence of the place and people. Or at least be only one in the group of local friends. When you are with your local friends, then other people look much more to you as a local too. They really even take less notice of you or when it is natural then they socialize with you as never would happen when you go around with white group. Of course it will also come to be possible over time, as you can't find true friends and good people with only couple of weeks. Well, maybe you shouldn't go to slums alone and return from there in the darkness like I did (as this is actually really crazy thing to do), then certainly don't limit yourself with what your travel companions want and decide to do or by following the warnings of every travel guide. Local contacts and friends.. and even lovers if you wish, are best things you can get in foreign country. If you are lucky, they show you places where tourists never ever get to go, dare to go or know to go. Sometimes even such special places about what most local population don't know.. some little wonderous secrets. Then you are really blessed. I was.
Just to give some head on, I will write about some certain experiences separately and add some photos, although with photos is that problem that I must make a selection from 20 dvd's.. we went crazy:D
