Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Magic of the coast

Sorry if this entry is hard to follow as it jumps from one thing to another . It is because I have wrote it in many places and over the quite long time. It is quite unclear even for me, how things actually were, or how I should have categorized anything by themes. But I still believe, it is enjoyable reading material... probably just a little bit more like American movies that jump both in time and space.
Because after Roma I didn´t get any coach places before Genova (or truthfully I even didn´t try much... sent few requests for Pisa and Livornia), it was quite unimportant how fast I move forward or where I will end my day. And Giacomo who accepted to host me in Genova, actually requested me to show up later than the day I wrote in a request, so I had even time to waste. Then again, as I have said, getting rides in Italy isn´t easy, so I still always went forward. But still, it was much more relaxed time there because of slow advancing and of course the sea itself. Yeah, this fact that finally I was on the Mediterranean coast, changed my spirit and feeling a lot: I wouldn´t count brief meeting with the sea in Venice. Now I can camp near the beach and in the morning take a refreshing bathe. Coast was welcoming me much better than rest of the Italia. Even people who gave me ride, raised the standard of how nice the Italians were towards me. BTW, on the west coast Italy, I got my first rides with women... that was surprising, as Italians usually were much more afraid and careful than other people in other countries, yet in other countries it has never happened that any woman would dare to pick me up. Ok, first woman seemed like Gypsy, bit crazy and seemed like he wouldn´t have anything to lose, but already next ride was with two very friendly Roman women going to vacation, who didn´t seem worried at all about any possible danger. They seemed so adventurer types. And finally from Pisa I got some way forward with two extremely beautiful young girls, and even they didn´t worry at all. Maybe all of them saw my traveller´s spirit rather, than thinking that as a man, especially bald man, I might be potential danger. I like people like that... for a better world we must all trust eachother more and have some faith into goodness.
First night I stayed near really beautiful place called Santa Marinella. I placed my tent into high grass on big field in front of some grand villa. Night went peacefully and in the morning I had only ten meters to beach. It is actually undescribable how much I missed sea, especially southern sea where is tropical weather, good vibes and happy music, and beauty all around. Now holding feet in the water is so nice, that I wouldn´t even want to leave. I had walked so much in Italia (especially in Roma), that my feet had blisters, but now in water my feet feel much better.
In beach I made second new hole for my belt. I´m definately losing weight. I rerely feel hunger though. Lots of people I have met on my travel have been so nice that they buy me something to eat – same way these women from second car on the coast, and in one bar where I bought a sandwich and a beer, owner of the place brought me three pies extra for the road. And of course I try to buy myself something more serious to eat once a day. But if I quote one war movie, then reason for the weight loss is „you drink, then you dehydrate, then you drink more and you dehydrate some more“... ok, maybe quote wasn´t absolutely exact as I haven´t watched it for a long time, but idea is same.
There was also one family in the beach. They had little cute daughter to whom I said ciao, causing her to cry from embarrasment. And one more girl, older and very beautiful, but I wonder how would be possible that she would be also the daughter of this woman and man, as girl was quite dark skinned, like it is impossible to tan, but these man and woman were absolutely white. I simply admired her beauty. But yeah, now finally on the beaches I can also get some tan. That is great, as so far I have only got my hands and head brown and also some colour to legs.
For second night I planned to get to Livorno, that was quite a far away. But I still wrote now a sign with only direction, not any place name. And although in Estonia I said to Kudrun, that I will take only two signs with me to this trip... one where´s written south and another one with west, then actually now first sign with direction was to north. And it worked pretty well... especially considering that when Italians see sign with some place where they are not going, they don´t pick you up, even though maybe they go half the way or even further from the place you want to get.
I did get to outskirts of Livorno for that evening. Really beautiful place. Coastal cliffs, beautiful villas and little romantic coastal cityhouses, and there was really magical forest where I stayed a night. First I went to eat some pizza, and as there were some other people in the same table with me, I of course started talking with them. Well, they didn´t speak much English, but somehow we talked. Or well, mostly I talked about my travel. But they seemed really nice and open minded people, and interested to hear my tale. I was even thinking of asking them if I can put my tent in their yard, but finally felt that I would probably ruin perfect conversation. So I went to look for a place for a tent. Actually many kilometers back there I saw some probably pretty good places, but I didn´t want to walk so much. Also down the cliffs on the beach wouldn´t have been such a good idea. Beach is stony and in the morning probably crowded. I decided to go to hills that are really close to the coast. After a little walk I found a way up to the forests on the hills, found fairly flat ground, and put up my tent. I started writing to my notebook and soon heared that there is someone walking around. I turned my lamp to the forest and saw two glowing eyes low to the ground. Black cat, was my first thought, as houses are really nearby. But soon I heared movement all around. Ok... now it was pretty clear that I share my woods with a family of wild boars. In a car to Firenze, these men warned me, that if I will go to hills to camp, then I should be careful to look for any signs for wild boars. I know that wild boars can be dangerous, especially when there is mother with pups... or little biggies... I don´t know how they should be called. I simply didn´t expect that chance for actual encounter would be so high. I guess wild boars are much more numerous there than I believed. Anyway, at first I held my lamp on the forest and even saw few times boars running by my tent, but then I found better idea to kill my light, be silent and let them live in peace. And my respectful behaviour was answered with them. They walked around in an area for a some time, but when I woke up in the night at some time, they had really completely went their own way. Yes I even got sleep when they were still around. But my tent has camouflage and looks kind of like big dense bush probably. By the way, when you go to such trip as I, then what you should take with you: same kind of camouflaged tent, probably also a sleeping mat, as it makes sleeping so much more comfortable, big bottle of water, two if possible (and fill them in every place you can) and buy one small bottle of some isotonic sport drink with that cap that you can easily use without using hands... later you fill also this with water, you definately need needle and a thread, some metal spoon and fork and travel knife, strong sunblock, hat. Everything is pretty much optional. And marker of course if you go by hitchhiking like I.
But anyway, I still have something to write about that same night in this forest. Ok, in Estonian sense, this wasn´t forest... it was small wood, but then again, it was much more. Because yes, also having nice family night with wild animals is quite magical, but real magical thing was something else. When I still burned my lamp looking wild boars, this light called out hundreds of wisps (note... not wasps but wisps, magical fairy creatures of only energy that glows) flying silently and slowly everywhere in this forest. You can probably say that these were fireflies, but I still believe it was fairy forest. What kind of fireflies light up periodically, and what kind of fireflies basically fly hoovering slowly without any sound? At least in Estonia they make noise with their wings like any beetle or flying bug. When I shut my light, they also flew by my tent. I even expected them to fly through the fabric of my tent and prove that these are magical beings, but they didn´t. But still, even if they WERE fireflyies, than this night was so beautiful. Even now, when I´m already in Spain, I still look back to this night and say taht this was best experience in all my Eurotrip. Or maybe magical doesn´t mean that you can fly through materia. Yeah, I still believe that wisps came to guard and see if I respect the life in their wood, and later also guarded my sleep.
In the morning I was very well rest, and going to swimm made me feel even better. Well, it was windy this day and sea had quite strong waves, so I didn´t stay in the water for long. Only people in the water were two surfers, one with wave board and another one with real surfboard... and then me of course. Oh, it would be cool to get surf lessons. On my way there is so nice beaches and in some places there are really good waves, but my money is so low. In that sense I shouldn´t had made that round for Rome. But hey, I don´t regret. Everything is for a reason, and if I wouldn´t had done it I wouldn´t have been also in this magical place. Anyway, on this day I should get to the way, where I should have gone even if not this Roman round. There was only two days to get to Genova. I went through Livorno, that in some way seemed much smaller city than I expected, but then again, walk through that city took some time. Finally some worksmen with small truck took me with them to Pisa. Pisa was really close – only 16 km-s away. I didn´t go inside the city, but maybe I saw the top of the leaning tower from the bridge. I don´t know, and actually I don´t care. I went straight to the other side from south-west to north-west, and pretty quickly two girls picked me up. Just amazing girls in my oppinion. Especially one of them was such a cool and certamente prettiest girl I have seen on this trip. And when I left the car I asked their names, but somehow forgot to say mine first... but I guess this was planned, as then they asked my name and also contact. I hope they really will look up my blog and get also my e-mail from here. But yeah, they also brought me forward just a little way, and to the place that they said to be dangerous. Ok, maybe only on the beach like they said, but I didn´t want to take any chances... I didn´t see any place suitable for tent anyway. But hitchhiking on Via Aurelia didn´t go so well this time. No wonder, as it already got dark. But there Via Aurelia also had metal barriers at the sides and no place to walk. So, finally when I realised the fact that I can´t get any car, my only option was to climb over the barrier and walk about five km-s on a slope filled with all kinds of plantlife, some also with thorns. Not best end for my evening, but another level of shit I could do and tolerate. Actually when I got off the next ramp, and walked some way away from Aurelia, I found another much more hiker friendly road coming from this last place to here too. Well, late wisdom is of course „most useful“. Now I just had to find a place for my tent. As this place was also near the beach, there were lots of camping sites and this time I even considered of going there, but way was too long, and I just happened to find again one vacant lot. Before I got sleep, there was again someone walking by, and this time not wild boars, but most certainly human, but luckily I didn´t have any bad surprises during the night or in the morning. This morning I didn´t have time to walk to the beach, that still was quite a way away. With this day I had to get to Genova, and already last night showed me that getting the ride around here might become a really hard deal. So it was, but I think this is again another theme for new entry.

Monday, July 11, 2011

About Coach Surfing

http://www.couchsurfing.org/
First I will say thanks to the staff of Coach Surfing, because what you do, makes world a better place. It has also helped me a lot on my travel now. Though, there are things I want to criticize about. First of all, there is lots of people there who have certain expectations from their guests, whereas most of them say that they want to meet different people and/or have open mind. A lot of them want you to send a personalized message to see what kind of person it is they host. Ok, I would understand about security reasons, but actually I haven't heared any stories of any dangerous or any unwanted moments anyone have had. I am pretty sure, that most of them simply select someone with whom they feel some emotional security. But if you want to meet different people, you actually shouldn't select and understand that everyone is not the same as you. Open mind is not when you wish your guests to do some wrestling, like was expected by few guys who answered me in Venice area. Open mind is when you can accept people as they are. I can say without making any secret that my open mindedness is in some cases limited, because I have some certain principles that I want to hold true to. Anyway, if you understand that there are also different ways of travelling, then some people can't plan much forward, and must send lots of requests only few days before arriving their target. That means it is impossible to write personalized message. I make my further travel plans usually just two-three days before. Idea to go to Rome came impulsively. Until now, few days before leaving France, I still hadn't chosen what road I will take after Barcelona... south, north or straight for Madrid. Sometimes hitchhiking goes really badly and I wouldn't get to my host in the expected time. But this is my kind of travelling. Hitchhiking is mission for me.. I really want to make a point with that... send some messages (about that I will write later). Also I understand when host to whom I don't get in right time, can't host me later, but I simply can't write a personalized message about why I chose this person. Actually I don't choose... I let fate choose for me, and then I will see what I can do with that person or what to learn from him/her. If you really want to select, then please, I always send my blog adress in request, so if you want to learn why I maybe could be interested of meeting you, then I think my blog gives enough answers - I am really interested of DIFFERENT people. I don't need to meet someone who is copy of me or my friend or who likes to do same things as me, or even have same principles. I don't mind living few days after some rules I find weird, or even have some easy dispute of things. Don't fear that I would impose my will or beliefs on you. I have feeling of decency and tolerance. Also, reason to send lots of copy-past requests is because as a guy, I don't get answers to every one of my requests, and especially in touristic areas, lots of requests get declined, because they already have someone on the coach. You see, to get one or two positive or even maybe answers, I just have to send dozens of requests. Anyway, if sending copy-paste requests would be something unnormal by the principles of CS, there wouldn't be templates. I understand the request that traveller would read through the profile of their possible host though. I even do it usually just for my own interest. Also for coach requesters absolutely first most important thing to do is to fill their profile, and when you do that, give possibility to really see your person behind it.
Ah yes, I also disagree with the idea of some coach surfers, who say that most important thing about CS is the connection and mutual interest between host and surfer... to meet the people (and usually they even say interesting people to them). No, CS was created so that travellers can mutually help each other, making it easier to travel for all of us. Sure, this doesn't mean exploiting the host by traveller. But anyway, this site should forever, ever retain its prime reason. If you are wise enough, then you see it even written in the name of the site. Meeting nice and interesting people, to have a connection, and/or having some other gain of interest, is secondary... although usually it happens anyway. For example, I have had really different people I meet through the CS and in one or other way I really enjoy meeting them. I always learn something new. Even if I find that I don't fit with some of them at all in a personal level. Like I said, some go even so far, that they write what they expect from their guest. Ok, if it is explanation that guest must leave early with host, or don't contact me if you are allergic or vegetarian or something, but some say for example something like I am partygoing and like to meet some people like me. It is in some way very similar to say that I don't host Jews. Can't you really be together with some conservative, who is fairly tolerant to select your company, or some quite silent bohemian dude, who likes to say something more intelligent than you say yourself. A lot of guys also write that they host only girls... some also explaining that they have had bad experiences with guys. What the hell, how can you have bad experiences hosting all the guys?! It is so transparent that you are just trying to get some girl. I would even understand if girl specifies that she prefers to host women... just for privacy or security reasons, but right now using the option to specify the preference is mostly used by men. Moreover, they just don't prefer, their only certain choice is that they host only women. It is said when you are signing up for CS, that it is not dating or social site, per se! If you are really open minded, then you even don't care about possibility to have somekind of bad experience over some time. You always look something also from these. Well, I wouldn't say that I have had a bad experience, but something not best either. I was hosted by this gay guy as I wrote in the last entry, who tried to talk me to have sex with him: "Why you travel like you travel? - To have an adventure, to experience new things and learn... maybe you just haven't done it... you don't know if you like what you would experience without experiencing it." I explained that I don't want to learn that... this is not what I expect from adventure. I already learned from that conversation something. Something about myself and also about him. And although entire evening I was a little tense, as something like this has never happened to me and I felt weard to be under the interest of the gay, additionally I feared to make any unwanted signals, and therefore I felt that I can't be as free and friendly and close as with some other guys. But if this day would be again and I would know how it goes, I would still go to be hosted by him. Not only because it is free place, as actually one guy in Rome showed me also one hostel he said to be free (it seemed weird place.. and I don't know, maybe it was homeless shelter or something like that, but I could have stayed also there freely).
Ok, I said that it seemed especially weird when these guys in Venice area expected me to take part of some wrestling... otherwise they don't host. Usually I like when my host would offer different possibilities, because I as traveller don't know the place and options. But this wrestlemania is pure harassment. They really aren't normal. If someone would accept to host me, and asks what I like to do, introducing that we can go to swimming, or go out to Judo Dojo where he goes to wrestle, then sure... I even maybe would select that option. Also, there should be some understanding between host and guest. I think if host is tired, it is unthinkable, that guest would seek a way to go to party, and vice versa. Sometimes it is understandable, that host can't introduce you the place, but it would be just stupid then to expect that your guest goes out then to leave you in peace and have a good time alone in a strange city. Usually, when my host wants or has to be at home, I also prefer to rest there. Of course I try not to be disturbance then. Mutual respect and understanding is main thing.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Road to Roma

After some consideration I decided that I really must go to Rome. Otherwise I would always think that I was in Italy, but not in Rome. You know, once Rome was a synonym for Europe. And when already on this way, I should also visit Venezia/Venice and Firenze/Florence. Just as a remark - I prefer the placenames as they are locally.
So Venezia - what about it? Basically I can't say anything about it. Yes I got there, but as soon as I arrived, I also left. Some ask if I didn't like it, but truth is that I even didn't see enough to make my mind about it. I saw channel full of dirty water, lots of tourists, and over the first houses the towers of famous old Venezia. Truth is, that I don't like sightseeing so much... at least not as most of the people do that, and I already had an image in my mind about Venezia as something where wouldn't be much for me. Without local friends, without connection to local life, I feel that cities are empty, however beautiful they would be. Even true abandoned city would be more interesting for me. And yes, to Venezia or any other place nearby, I failed to find a host through Coach Surfing. Actually I understand, as these places are such a tourist magnets, and people there got so many requests; But this doesn't mean that my feeling would get better from knowing that. I still felt hoplessness and loneliness, adding to the travel stress. My stay in Udine had already stretched from few days to six (by the way I am very thankful for everyone in Udine who helped me - to have a place to sleep, to get over of this loneliness and boredness, for everything). So,  my next beacon of light and hope was in Firenze. A guy named LEonardo, who is over fifty years old and accepts lots of coach surfers at the same time, said that he has a place for me for one night. That is actually reason why I hurried away from Venice... to get to Firenze in this day. Anyway I had already lost a lot of precious time, trying to get away from Udine, as there is no good place to hitchhike. Would I had only known how will be the night, I would have still stayed in a campingsite near Venezia and gone to walk there.
I didn't get to Firenze in this day. When a car driver left me in Bologna, I didn't understood, in how bad place to hitchhike for Firenze I was. Next day I saw that there was still entire city to walk through, before getting any chance of stopping anyone going out of Bologna to south. In my oppinion, Bologna is nothing special. And I was so late there, that I even couldn't get any idea where I am or get some food. Only thing I saw, were roadside prostitutes. How much different from them am I? I too try to catch a car... not to earn money, but to get a free ride. I just don't use my body for that, but my traveller's nature.
Finally it was already too late and I gave up hitchhiking, and started looking for a place to put my tent. I planned to get to the hills that were behind the city. Only problem was that I didn't know how to get there. There were highways on my way. I did something crazy. I walked a long way on the highway, crossed it few times, walked even in the highway tunnels (well anyway it was dark, but tunnels, even though they had lights, seemed still darker and more dangerous. I did it to find off ramp somewhere at the other side. But in one tunnel there was an emergency exit, so I used this instead. I was so tired of walking and not knowing how to get to the hills, so I just went up to the roof of the tunnel and placed my tent there. It is definately craziest place I have slept.
Initial agreement with Leonardo of Firenze was only for that night, so next day I still went to Firenze without having a plan. At first I walked around my heavy bag on my shoulders, but finally decided that I should ask from Leo about if he knows any cheap place to camp and also eat. But Leo sent me answer that I can come to dinner at his place and he also knows a place for my tent. that place, as I finally discovered was on his very big balcony (I was thinking that maybe he has a garden, but balcony was good enough for me too... at least not on top of the highway tunnel), and finally I got to know that actually he can even host me for two or even three nights and that in following nights I can even move to bed. Best about that was that during this time I had a lot of company (like I already said, he hosts many people from different places, making international and intercultural contacts). Altogether in the same time as me, there were five Americans (really cool people with whom I didn't have any problem to find a common ground), a couple from UK (they stayed more on their own, but I still had chance to talk with them, and I still liked them), and one guy from Korea, who was more secluded as he didn't speak so good English. And in the last day came one couple from Argentina. This (meeting all these other travellers) finally made my stay in Firenze interesting and good time. At first I walked around a little bit, looking the amazing architecture of the city, but I still wasn't like everyday usual tourist, as I stopped a lot to sit or lay down somewhere next to one of the touristic attractions, drinked beer or ate pizza, watched other people (usually "running" from one place to another to take photos and I wrote... I wrote a lot. On this journey it is clear that most of the pictures I make with words. I was even so unusual, that one older man, who quite clearly was a tourist too, made a photo of me sitting next to the Duomo and writing as there wouldn't be one of the most known symbols of European old architecture beside me. Actually I would say because of that, that this man was a unusual tourist too... he too found something else to capture, than Duomo beside him. Second day Leonardo took some of us to little tour - some churches with mediocre art, a nice park of the palace, and Fiesole town on the hill next to Firenze (that was already on my list of things to visit in Firenze), from where was fantastic view to the entire city. In the evening I went with Americans to look for the party, we didn't find anything very good though. In the third day I went together with Leo outside of Firenze to CS barbeque party. This was really nice - really good company (first time I really felt that I communicate with Italians) and very good food. I got stomach really full. Ah yes, by the way, In last two days we cooked foods of our countries. In second evening Britts cooked together with Korean guy, and in third evening I together with three Americans. In both days we had really great dinner. So I felt that these two last days I ate and drinked all the time. But anyway, about this CS BBQ was also great thing that on the way there, Leo showed me best place to go to ask for a ride to Roma, and thanks to that I got the ride to rome in only few minutes. And when we came back from BBQ, we came another way, where I saw really good different views of absolutely charming Italian villages, small towns that had houses built storey by storey, so they looked like house built on top of another house? and usually they were about four-five floored, creating weird town on the hill side. More... nice farmfields separated by cypress strips, an old castle, beautiful roads with these amazing mediterranean pines on the roadsides, and also one of the nicest industrial zone before Firenze, because buildings were from red bricks, like from the beginning of the industrial era. Anyway... big up for Leonardo.
But then time came to leave... for all of us. I joked, that it feels again like being a soldier - at first we were rookies, having some hard time to get used to some Leo's regulations and life there, but with every day it seemed easier... Leo softened, and in the end we were veterans, welcoming new ones and knowing that it is our time to go forward. It was in one side really hard to leave others (all others went somewhere north but my road to Rome continued south), but I was also waiting to get to Rome and even anxious to see what new adventures life brings me. Somehow I knew, that on the coast I will find something different from what I had experienced so far (but lets not get ahead of things).
I entered Roma,the great city of legends and miracles, from east, and in two days I walked through Roma from one side to another. But Rome didn't welcome me with greatness. Eastern side was industrial park and wasteland and then some ghetto kind of suburbs, one worse than another. Just before getting to centre of the city, was worst part of it - really smelling maze where I even felt insecure, as there was lots of poor black people, Indians, Pakistanians, et cetera. Some homeless people looking even worse than in Estonia. Actually Even Center with great monuments and architecture from both ancient times (or actually mostly ruins from that time) and revival period, didn't seem anything especially amazing. I would prefer even Firenze and deffinitely Wien or Klagenfurt, that really were beautiful places. In my oppinion, Roma is too bad mix of everything.
Of course partly it was also fault of short time stay and nature of how I felt with my host. No, nothing extremely bad... if I would find him in CS, I would still write him a positive refference. It was very hard to find a host in Roma of course, but finally one guy wrote me. He said that if it doesn't bother me that he is gay, then he can help me. I sent him answer saying that if he understands that I am totally straight and I have a girlfriend, then everything would be good. So I got to stay at his place, and actually for a sightseeing people he would be probably best host, as he knows everything about Rome (he works in a hotel), and can tell about even symbolics of things. Well in Rome I really was like a tourist, trying to see as many of these monuments and places as possible with this short time. But problem was, that actually even though what I wrote to him, he thought that maybe he can change my mind. He said, maybe I just don't know what I want. But then after my explanation that I surely know that I simply am attracted by girls and couldn't enjoy having sex with a man... that I know that even without trying it, the same way as he simply feels that he is attracted by men... and when I explained how much I love my girl (I didn't even say to him, but actually even though I have had a lot of enticing girls on my way, I would even feel bad when I would cheat my love with some girl with whom I really would like to have sex), then he understood. He respected my choice totally and was still nice towards me. And he still teached me some things. Like really efficiently washing my cloths. I only hope that he also learned something from me. But yes, as he said that he is too much attracted by me, I can only stay one night and in the morning I'm on my own.
In the next morning I visited some places where we went in the evening, also in the daylight and went inside to few churches. I also planned to go in to the Pantheon, but somehow in the rush, I forgot that. You see what moving and thinking like a tourist does. There was also exhibition of paintings of Tamara de Lempica (one artist by whom I felt influenced a lot for a while... and certainly still one of my favourites), but ticket seemed too much and I didn't go there. Now I'm bit regretting my decision. But in general, Rome seemed dead city for me - of the new parts I don't care and old part is in ruins and lost its glory.
Quite different matter though was Vatican - holy citystate inside Rome. St; Peter's Basilica really was a masterpiece of art. When some old religious art in the churches I had visited, has pretty much sucked, then there was everything perfect and grand. Really appropriate for the centre of the Catholic, even all Christian world. I really even felt something spiritual and because of that feeling I stepped inside the praying room, where I prayed in my own way. First time in a church I didn't care that my beliefe is different from Christianity. But like one Krishnaite guy when he tried to introduce me his beliefs in Tallinn, and then I said that I already have my own beliefs, he said to me, that no problem... God is still the same, we just believe it differently. So I prayed for me and my loved one, so that my journey would take me back to her, and I gave my thanks to the God for everything. By the way, this same evening something weird happened. There was some buzzer flying to my ear and when I weved with a hand, my fingers got behind my rasta necklace and ripped it broken. How is this possible... even with force human can't break this plastic thread (you know, what fishermen use) by bare hands. So I took it as sign that God maybe accepts my kind of belief , but shows that then I also don't need a rasta necklace (as I have always said that for believing, Christians don't need a church or even ceremonies and praying, as God anyway know everything. Also from Vatican I sent postcards to my girl, to my family and to Kudrun, because she likes to collect postcards sent from travels.
And after that started again the road. This time road away from Roma. But about that in a next entry, I give just a hint that my feeling about Italy gets somewhat better and I really start to love Via Aurelia - modern version of ancient road. Just as a reminder for myself I also write here to look about other ancient roads like Via Apia, and what has come of these in modern times. But no more hints, this would just ruin the fairytale. Oh, there is still so much to write about Italy and I'm now already in France and after few days probably already in Spain. Of course I also was in Italy longer than any other country on my travel (over two weeks), but still, I have already same as much text written in my journal about Italy as about all the other countries together; This means that when writing here I have to do some selections and shorten it all the time, and lately I don't hav much possibilities to use internet for long time enough. But I always try. No worries, be happy! Ciao tutti!