Sunday, July 10, 2011

Road to Roma

After some consideration I decided that I really must go to Rome. Otherwise I would always think that I was in Italy, but not in Rome. You know, once Rome was a synonym for Europe. And when already on this way, I should also visit Venezia/Venice and Firenze/Florence. Just as a remark - I prefer the placenames as they are locally.
So Venezia - what about it? Basically I can't say anything about it. Yes I got there, but as soon as I arrived, I also left. Some ask if I didn't like it, but truth is that I even didn't see enough to make my mind about it. I saw channel full of dirty water, lots of tourists, and over the first houses the towers of famous old Venezia. Truth is, that I don't like sightseeing so much... at least not as most of the people do that, and I already had an image in my mind about Venezia as something where wouldn't be much for me. Without local friends, without connection to local life, I feel that cities are empty, however beautiful they would be. Even true abandoned city would be more interesting for me. And yes, to Venezia or any other place nearby, I failed to find a host through Coach Surfing. Actually I understand, as these places are such a tourist magnets, and people there got so many requests; But this doesn't mean that my feeling would get better from knowing that. I still felt hoplessness and loneliness, adding to the travel stress. My stay in Udine had already stretched from few days to six (by the way I am very thankful for everyone in Udine who helped me - to have a place to sleep, to get over of this loneliness and boredness, for everything). So,  my next beacon of light and hope was in Firenze. A guy named LEonardo, who is over fifty years old and accepts lots of coach surfers at the same time, said that he has a place for me for one night. That is actually reason why I hurried away from Venice... to get to Firenze in this day. Anyway I had already lost a lot of precious time, trying to get away from Udine, as there is no good place to hitchhike. Would I had only known how will be the night, I would have still stayed in a campingsite near Venezia and gone to walk there.
I didn't get to Firenze in this day. When a car driver left me in Bologna, I didn't understood, in how bad place to hitchhike for Firenze I was. Next day I saw that there was still entire city to walk through, before getting any chance of stopping anyone going out of Bologna to south. In my oppinion, Bologna is nothing special. And I was so late there, that I even couldn't get any idea where I am or get some food. Only thing I saw, were roadside prostitutes. How much different from them am I? I too try to catch a car... not to earn money, but to get a free ride. I just don't use my body for that, but my traveller's nature.
Finally it was already too late and I gave up hitchhiking, and started looking for a place to put my tent. I planned to get to the hills that were behind the city. Only problem was that I didn't know how to get there. There were highways on my way. I did something crazy. I walked a long way on the highway, crossed it few times, walked even in the highway tunnels (well anyway it was dark, but tunnels, even though they had lights, seemed still darker and more dangerous. I did it to find off ramp somewhere at the other side. But in one tunnel there was an emergency exit, so I used this instead. I was so tired of walking and not knowing how to get to the hills, so I just went up to the roof of the tunnel and placed my tent there. It is definately craziest place I have slept.
Initial agreement with Leonardo of Firenze was only for that night, so next day I still went to Firenze without having a plan. At first I walked around my heavy bag on my shoulders, but finally decided that I should ask from Leo about if he knows any cheap place to camp and also eat. But Leo sent me answer that I can come to dinner at his place and he also knows a place for my tent. that place, as I finally discovered was on his very big balcony (I was thinking that maybe he has a garden, but balcony was good enough for me too... at least not on top of the highway tunnel), and finally I got to know that actually he can even host me for two or even three nights and that in following nights I can even move to bed. Best about that was that during this time I had a lot of company (like I already said, he hosts many people from different places, making international and intercultural contacts). Altogether in the same time as me, there were five Americans (really cool people with whom I didn't have any problem to find a common ground), a couple from UK (they stayed more on their own, but I still had chance to talk with them, and I still liked them), and one guy from Korea, who was more secluded as he didn't speak so good English. And in the last day came one couple from Argentina. This (meeting all these other travellers) finally made my stay in Firenze interesting and good time. At first I walked around a little bit, looking the amazing architecture of the city, but I still wasn't like everyday usual tourist, as I stopped a lot to sit or lay down somewhere next to one of the touristic attractions, drinked beer or ate pizza, watched other people (usually "running" from one place to another to take photos and I wrote... I wrote a lot. On this journey it is clear that most of the pictures I make with words. I was even so unusual, that one older man, who quite clearly was a tourist too, made a photo of me sitting next to the Duomo and writing as there wouldn't be one of the most known symbols of European old architecture beside me. Actually I would say because of that, that this man was a unusual tourist too... he too found something else to capture, than Duomo beside him. Second day Leonardo took some of us to little tour - some churches with mediocre art, a nice park of the palace, and Fiesole town on the hill next to Firenze (that was already on my list of things to visit in Firenze), from where was fantastic view to the entire city. In the evening I went with Americans to look for the party, we didn't find anything very good though. In the third day I went together with Leo outside of Firenze to CS barbeque party. This was really nice - really good company (first time I really felt that I communicate with Italians) and very good food. I got stomach really full. Ah yes, by the way, In last two days we cooked foods of our countries. In second evening Britts cooked together with Korean guy, and in third evening I together with three Americans. In both days we had really great dinner. So I felt that these two last days I ate and drinked all the time. But anyway, about this CS BBQ was also great thing that on the way there, Leo showed me best place to go to ask for a ride to Roma, and thanks to that I got the ride to rome in only few minutes. And when we came back from BBQ, we came another way, where I saw really good different views of absolutely charming Italian villages, small towns that had houses built storey by storey, so they looked like house built on top of another house? and usually they were about four-five floored, creating weird town on the hill side. More... nice farmfields separated by cypress strips, an old castle, beautiful roads with these amazing mediterranean pines on the roadsides, and also one of the nicest industrial zone before Firenze, because buildings were from red bricks, like from the beginning of the industrial era. Anyway... big up for Leonardo.
But then time came to leave... for all of us. I joked, that it feels again like being a soldier - at first we were rookies, having some hard time to get used to some Leo's regulations and life there, but with every day it seemed easier... Leo softened, and in the end we were veterans, welcoming new ones and knowing that it is our time to go forward. It was in one side really hard to leave others (all others went somewhere north but my road to Rome continued south), but I was also waiting to get to Rome and even anxious to see what new adventures life brings me. Somehow I knew, that on the coast I will find something different from what I had experienced so far (but lets not get ahead of things).
I entered Roma,the great city of legends and miracles, from east, and in two days I walked through Roma from one side to another. But Rome didn't welcome me with greatness. Eastern side was industrial park and wasteland and then some ghetto kind of suburbs, one worse than another. Just before getting to centre of the city, was worst part of it - really smelling maze where I even felt insecure, as there was lots of poor black people, Indians, Pakistanians, et cetera. Some homeless people looking even worse than in Estonia. Actually Even Center with great monuments and architecture from both ancient times (or actually mostly ruins from that time) and revival period, didn't seem anything especially amazing. I would prefer even Firenze and deffinitely Wien or Klagenfurt, that really were beautiful places. In my oppinion, Roma is too bad mix of everything.
Of course partly it was also fault of short time stay and nature of how I felt with my host. No, nothing extremely bad... if I would find him in CS, I would still write him a positive refference. It was very hard to find a host in Roma of course, but finally one guy wrote me. He said that if it doesn't bother me that he is gay, then he can help me. I sent him answer saying that if he understands that I am totally straight and I have a girlfriend, then everything would be good. So I got to stay at his place, and actually for a sightseeing people he would be probably best host, as he knows everything about Rome (he works in a hotel), and can tell about even symbolics of things. Well in Rome I really was like a tourist, trying to see as many of these monuments and places as possible with this short time. But problem was, that actually even though what I wrote to him, he thought that maybe he can change my mind. He said, maybe I just don't know what I want. But then after my explanation that I surely know that I simply am attracted by girls and couldn't enjoy having sex with a man... that I know that even without trying it, the same way as he simply feels that he is attracted by men... and when I explained how much I love my girl (I didn't even say to him, but actually even though I have had a lot of enticing girls on my way, I would even feel bad when I would cheat my love with some girl with whom I really would like to have sex), then he understood. He respected my choice totally and was still nice towards me. And he still teached me some things. Like really efficiently washing my cloths. I only hope that he also learned something from me. But yes, as he said that he is too much attracted by me, I can only stay one night and in the morning I'm on my own.
In the next morning I visited some places where we went in the evening, also in the daylight and went inside to few churches. I also planned to go in to the Pantheon, but somehow in the rush, I forgot that. You see what moving and thinking like a tourist does. There was also exhibition of paintings of Tamara de Lempica (one artist by whom I felt influenced a lot for a while... and certainly still one of my favourites), but ticket seemed too much and I didn't go there. Now I'm bit regretting my decision. But in general, Rome seemed dead city for me - of the new parts I don't care and old part is in ruins and lost its glory.
Quite different matter though was Vatican - holy citystate inside Rome. St; Peter's Basilica really was a masterpiece of art. When some old religious art in the churches I had visited, has pretty much sucked, then there was everything perfect and grand. Really appropriate for the centre of the Catholic, even all Christian world. I really even felt something spiritual and because of that feeling I stepped inside the praying room, where I prayed in my own way. First time in a church I didn't care that my beliefe is different from Christianity. But like one Krishnaite guy when he tried to introduce me his beliefs in Tallinn, and then I said that I already have my own beliefs, he said to me, that no problem... God is still the same, we just believe it differently. So I prayed for me and my loved one, so that my journey would take me back to her, and I gave my thanks to the God for everything. By the way, this same evening something weird happened. There was some buzzer flying to my ear and when I weved with a hand, my fingers got behind my rasta necklace and ripped it broken. How is this possible... even with force human can't break this plastic thread (you know, what fishermen use) by bare hands. So I took it as sign that God maybe accepts my kind of belief , but shows that then I also don't need a rasta necklace (as I have always said that for believing, Christians don't need a church or even ceremonies and praying, as God anyway know everything. Also from Vatican I sent postcards to my girl, to my family and to Kudrun, because she likes to collect postcards sent from travels.
And after that started again the road. This time road away from Roma. But about that in a next entry, I give just a hint that my feeling about Italy gets somewhat better and I really start to love Via Aurelia - modern version of ancient road. Just as a reminder for myself I also write here to look about other ancient roads like Via Apia, and what has come of these in modern times. But no more hints, this would just ruin the fairytale. Oh, there is still so much to write about Italy and I'm now already in France and after few days probably already in Spain. Of course I also was in Italy longer than any other country on my travel (over two weeks), but still, I have already same as much text written in my journal about Italy as about all the other countries together; This means that when writing here I have to do some selections and shorten it all the time, and lately I don't hav much possibilities to use internet for long time enough. But I always try. No worries, be happy! Ciao tutti!

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