Darkness on safari through Kenya, Africa infested with lots of poverty, hunger, AIDS and greedy elephant killing Kikuyus

http://www.granta.com/Magazine/92/How-to-Write-about-Africa/Page-1

Thatkind of link was given by someone who commented Mariann's blog, being disturbed by circumstance that Manna shows Africa in bad light. OMG.. certainly read this article.. it is hilarious. By the way, I SHOULD write a book holding this guide in my mind.. I guess it would be a superhit in comedy genre. And actually, considering this, my blog aren't so bad either :p

Sellise lingi andis üks Marianni blogi kommenteerija, olles häiritud asjaolust, et Manna Aafrikat halvas valguses näitab. Oh jumal küll.. loe artikkel kindlasti läbi.. see on ülimalt naljakas. Peaks kusjuures seda meeles pidades kirjutama raamatu.. oleks ilmselt hitt komöödia šanris. Ja ega mu blogigi väga halb selle järgi pole :p

Rainforest

Translation to Estonian follows.

1. February 2010

Yes, morning wakeup was early. Small breakfast and then we started or hike. Really cool.. as we would have went few hundred years back in time. At first there were wide paths going into the jungle and in some places even the way signs, but soon paths started spreading, getting narrower and finally completely hard to spot. In some places our way was completely blocked by bushes or fallen trees. On one open field in the middle of the rainforest we wandered around by paths that probably were created by animals. At least none of these took us anywhere. For some time it felt we are a little bit lost and some even considered that we should go back the same way we came, but after some time we found our way to the river. The same we found last day. So logically, if we go upstream, we should again get to the falls. Just to get ahead a bit, I can say that it was best idea, as we probably wouldn’t have found any better jungle paths and views anywhere else.

When we got to the river, we made a stop. We ate some weird triangular bread, dipped our feet into the stream, and just rested a bit. I of course decided to try to cross the river. It was full of slippery stones and in the middle water deep and the stream pretty strong. First time crossing it, I even managed to remain dry, but when going back, I chose another place where bottom seemed sandy and water more shallow. But when I got to the middle, situation changed suddenly. Again there were slippery and in some cases loose stones. Water got deeper very suddenly and stream was even stronger, as now I was at the beginning of small rapids. Many times I was about to fall, but finale happened just near the riverbank. I already thought that I had safely crossed it, when because of some loose stones I really lost the balance. For the disappointment of others (as they didn’t get good photo) I didn’t fall, but as I struggled to get back the balance and had to put hands into water, I got a little bit wet.

Ahead by the riverbank, path turned really wild. It ran up and down, turned around gigantic trees and impassable coppice, and in most places slope to the river was high and steep. From above the lianas fell to the path. At one place there were really tall palm trees. Near the river we finally also saw white colobus monkeys. Last day we saw some black ones and guys said that we also saw some blue monkeys. At the final part of the trail, Sarah and I were running again. It was a good cross country.

When we got back to the camp we were extremely hungry and thirsty. So we ate and prepared to leave (as we were only allowed to stay in the reserve for 24 hours). But we still decided that before going we have time for short walk. Mykolas, Carlos, Sarah, Justas and I went to viewing platform that was on a little hill. Rest decided to go to so called monkey trail. Monkey trail my ass! We had fun of climbing some cliffs; admire beautiful view to the entire forest; to see lots of colobuses, etc. But coolest thing was when we walked back that one big family of baboons had come to the road. Carlos got very good photos of them. And for conclusion I found a very nice eagle feather, what I set to the head of Sarah and took a very good picture of her too. I want to print it in a proper size to the photo paper. It would be good portfolio photo and nice gift for Sarah. Actually I also did a nice photo of Kristi. Now I would like to make a perfect portrait photo of Kate too.

So, for conclusion, even though this trip was expensive, it was absolutely worth it. Rainforest is great. Of animals we saw at least three different species of monkeys (in Kenya there were supposed to be 7 or 8 species.. therefore good achievement), countless beautiful butterflies, including the dead one, ants that traveled in wide lines, very weird dead bug, a green forest giraffe and of course the pink panther. Some birds also but nicest one we encountered actually when we already had left the reserve.

Drive back to Eld was again in a matatu packed full of people. At the beginning there was really big local mama sitting beside me, and when she went out, one man and one woman replaced her. Even less space. Especially freaky was that when this man finally went out, this woman still stayed tightly against me, although now there was lots of room to take it little bit easier. I guess I was so warm and softy then. In matatu Love and I listened music from my mp3 player. He said that he has lots of such kind of music that I probably like.

Twiga - giraffe

Kima – monkey

Punda - donkey

Kipepeo – butterfly

Siafu – ant

Vihmamets

1. veebruar 2010

Yes, hommikune äratus oli varajane. Väike hommikusöök ja alustasimegi oma matka. Päris lahe. Nagu oleks sattunud paarisaja aasta tagusesse aega. Metsa sisenedes olid algul küll laiad rajad koos mõnes kohas asuvate suunaviitadega, kuid üpris varsti hakkasid laiad rajad hargnema, muutudes kitsamaks ja lõpuks päris vaevumärgatavaks. Mõnes kohas takistasid noor võsa või langenud puud meie tee täielikult. Ühe lagendiku peal ekslesime tükk aega mööda radu, mis ilmselt olid hoopis loomade tekitatud, sest kuhugile välja need küll ei viinud. Vahepeal hakkas tekkima tunne, et oleme juba eksinud ja tuleks sama teed tagasi minna. Lõpuks siiski ringi ekseldes jõudsime jõe äärde. Selle sama, milles me eelmisel õhtul ujumas käisime. Seega ülesvoolu liikudes peaks sama koseni jõudma. Veidi ette rutates tahaks öelda, et see oli parim idee, kuna paremaid radasid ja džungli vaateid ei oleks ilmselt kusagilt leidnud. Jõe äärde jõudes tegime väikese peatuse. Sõime veidi, kastsime jalad vette ja puhkasime muidu. Mina loomulikult katsetasin, kas suudan läbi jõe minna. Põhi oli libedaid kive täis ja keskel oli sügav ning päris tugev vool. Esimest korda jõge ületades jäin siiski päris kuivaks. Tagasi minnes valisin ületamiseks aga uue koha, sest see paistis madalam ja liivase põhjaga. Jõe keskkoha kantis aga olukord muutus. Jälle libedad ja mõnes kohas ka lahtised kivid. Ja sügavaks ning tugevavooluliseks muutus jõgi ka väga järsku. Seal oli vool isegi vist tugevam, kuna tegemist oli väikese kärestiku algusega. Mitu korda tahtis mul jalad alt tõmmata. Aga finaale juhtus hoopis päris kalda lähedal, kui ma olin juba üpris kindel oma turvalises kaldale jõudmises. Veerevate kivide pärast kadus tõsiselt tasakaal ära. Siiski päris vette ei kukkunud (teiste pettumuseks, sest nad lootsid head fotot saada), aga tasakaalu taastamiseks rabeledes sain siiski parajalt märjaks.

Edasi mööda jõekallast muutus rada eriti metsikuks. Jooksis üles-alla, keerutas ümber hiiglaslike puude ja läbipääsmatute tihnikute. Enamustes kohtades oli jõekallas järsk ja kõrge. Puude latvadest rippusid üksteise ümber väänduvad liaanid. Ühes kohas kasvasid eriti hiiglaslikud palmid. Lõpuks nägime ka valgeid koloobus ahve. Eelmisel päeval olime näinud mustasid ja teised ütlesid, et nägime ka siniseid ahve. Raja lõpu poole hakkasime jälle Sarah’ga jooksma. Mõnus maastiku jooksu rada oli.

Laagrisse tagasi jõudes olime ülimalt näljased ja janus. Seega siis sõime ja avastasime, et üsna pea peame lahkuma (sest kaitsealal tohtisime olla vaid 24 tundi). Siiski enne lahkumist otsustasime väikese ringi teha. Mina, Mykolas, Carlos, Sarah ja Justas, läksime vaateplatvormile, mis asus väikese mäe otsas. Ülejäänud otsustasid nii-öelda ahvirajale minna. Monkey trail my ass! Me saime järsakul väheke ronida, imetleda imelist vaadet kogu metsale, näha hulka mustasid koloobuseid ja kõige lahedam oli, et tagasi tulles avastasime, et meie teele on roninud suur paavianide pere. Carlos sai neist väga häid fotosid. Tipuks leidsin ma kotka sule, mille ma Sarah’le pähe seadsin ja temast väga laheda foto tegin. Loodan, et saan selle siin kuskil paraja suurusega foto paberile printida. Oleks hea portfoolio foto mulle ja kink Sarah’le. Kristist tegin ka kena foto. Nüüd tahaks vaid veel Kate’st täiusliku portree saada.

Niisiis kokkuvõtteks, kuigi nii sõit kui reservaadi külastus olid kallid, oli see täielikult seda kulutust väärt. Vihmamets oli ülivõimas ja austust äratav. Loomadest nägime vähemalt kolme eri liiki ahve (Keenias pidi neid kokku olema 7 või 8.. seega päris hea tulemus), lugematult erinevaid üliilusaid liblikaid, kaasa arvatud üks surnud, laiades ridades rändavaid sipelgaid, ühte väga veidrat surnud putukat, rohelist metsakaelkirjakut ja muidugi roosat pantrit. Mõningaid linde ka, kuigi parima otsa juhtusime alles väljas pool kaitseala.

Tagasi Eldi sõit oli jällegi rahvast puupüsti täis matatus. Minu kõrvale istus muidugi ilgelt suur kohalik mammi ja kui tema maha läks, tulid üks mees ja üks naine asemele. Veel vähem ruumi. Eriti imelik oli see, et lõpuks kui see mees maha läks, siis naine istus ikka tihedalt mu külje all edasi, kuigi ruumi nüüd ju oli, et veidi vabamalt võtta. Ju ma siis nii mõnusalt soe ja pehme olin. Matatus kuulasime Love’ga minu mp3 mängijast muusikat ja ta ütles, et tal on hulganisti sellist kraami, mis mulle ilmselt meeldib.

Twiga - kaelkirjak

Kima – ahv

Punda - eesel

Kipepeo – liblikas

Siafu – sipelgas

Bad boys and bad girls aka. More Fire

31. January

In the last post I wrote how I had a little yearning for my people. Today Estonia and even friends seem like a dream I saw last night or even like a fantasy story. As good and unreal as the stories about the dragons. It seems simply impossible that somewhere there is snow on the ground. Mariann asked from me if I would believe it if she would take a snowball from the pocket and throws me with it. She has a good imagination. January is ending, it is evening and still it is hot. Well yes, right now we are also on lower ground than usually. We thought that it would be great to travel a little bit in free days. At first we thought again about going to Kerio valley, and hike to the bottom, but locals said that it is too dangerous without car, because there is some wildlife. Therefore we decided to go to Kakamega rainforest reserve.

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But first I continue from yesterday’s happenings. In the morning we went to Huruma, where we had this awaited first football match. It was a really amazing game. We started with very intensive offence. Pushed on really hard during all the game and opponents weren’t bad either. Final score 1:1 was satisfactory and it seemed that also opposing team was happy with that. So, on the sport we showed ourselves from good side from the beginning. By the way, I bought myself proper football shoes from here. These were used, but very good and cheap. Thanks to that I got to run really fast on the field, but I also made one incredible fall (because I’m not yet used to these). I had a wrong step when I tried to pass the ball from side to front of the gate, as the chance to score from that would have been almost certain. But instead I made an somersault and bleeded my hands.

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Afternoon, lots of locals came to visit us and they made the food for us instead of Caroline. Lots of chapatis. Later we went to club. Well, it wasn’t really a club in our sense, but at least we got to dance. First real African bashment. After some wine I and Kate were the first to go onto the dance floor, but immediately more people started to come. With a little time party went wild. Could say that Kate and I, we are a couple now. Can I get closer with Africa? Of course I can, and it is possible that we’ll get there, but then again I’m still not planning to bring a girl with me from Africa. Yet I wouldn’t say no to moving to Kenya myself. Climate is good here, people nice. In Estonia I can’t say that I’m much of a favorite of girls, but here it seems I can get prettiest girls easily. Kate told me that I’m beautiful and many times people said that I dance good, and I believe they really meant it. I think here white people can be really successful in everything. More successful than local people and do it more easily than in Europe or America.

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Today morning we finally went to church with Caroline. It was terrible. Only funny thing was that pastor talked how small things distract us from God and belief. I would have liked to say: “Words for example, not to mention the big things like church.” Belief is in our heart/head and we can’t even express it verbally very well. And you may argue against me, but I think that if God exists then it is everything and knows everything.. even your thoughts. So you don’t have to go to church to find it, and you don’t need to pray to communicate with it. It was so much talk and singing, but at least for me it didn’t say anything. After the tormenting and awkward churchgoing (because naturally I didn’t go along with any prayer or song), we bought a tents, went home packed things and then to Kakamega. This trip got to be more expensive than we thought, but it is worth it Rainforest is beautiful and cool. It sings and here are lots of different butterflies, monkies and dragons :D

We arrived to camping site, but we don’t stay in tents as we planned, as bandas (little round houses with thatched roofs – traditional architecture here – can really be found everywhere in rural areas even these days) were for some reason cheaper.

Although we had only little time until the sunset, we went to little walk to find Isiukhu falls. Finally we got to swim. Our way back was mostly in pitch black, but as you can see, we didn't get lost. In the "kitchen house" near the other bandas, we met a nice French couple (Slim and Laureen) who talked a lot of interesting things. We prepared the dinner, improvised some spoons (as of course no-one remembered to take these with us) and now we wait for drinking water to start boil. It should happen any moment now.. although we have had the same thought for half an hour at least.

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In the morning we wake up early and go to serious rainforest hike.

Ongeza moto! – more fire!

Ukuapi? – where are you?

Ngoja! – wait!

All covered by Africa

29. January

When we go back to Estonia, then probably we are the most polite Estonians. Not to mention that Kenyans thank for everything, they even apologize for things that are no way of their fault. For example yesterday I stepped to Sarah’s heel and she apologized. Something went into my throat when we were eating and I started coughing, she again apologized (to me). Of course I said that, no, I should be one apologizing, but so it is here. Then they also ask all the time: “how are you, how was the town?” and other such things. All that is so easily sticking. Then again, Kenyans have a weird habit to ask whatever they just desire at some random moment and that basically without any politeness: money, chocolate, pens. The worst is that mostly these are our known people who ask, not street kids, and it is much harder to say no to them. But yesterday Joshuah, Jackson and one another Kenyan guy asked us to the cafe and paid our colas. That’s how it is here. It seems like they all are one big family. If someone desires something, then they hope that maybe you can help them. For us, who we believe more into private space and property, who we make quite certain plans for what to spend the money, for us it may be hard sometimes. But still, for me it seemed now quite bad that Helen couldn’t give money to Caroline when she asked it. Of course Helen and actually we all have very limited money, and locals have to understand that we are not rich. Then again, after Helen told me about it, I still felt like maybe I still should give it. I was in a quandary if that would offend anybody (Helen basically) or if I would do wrong, only causing more of such requests.

More about politeness and commons. It is told/written that public signs of intimate relationship are kind of taboo here. Yes, I haven’t seen anybody kissing openly and hugging is done mostly when greeting or leaving. It just doesn’t happen that couple is bound around each other, but holding hands is quite normal. It even doesn’t mean the intimate relationship, as even two men sometimes hold hands when walking on the street. Sarah has held my hand countless times and she has many times confirmed, that this doesn’t mean anything.

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Yesterday we walked with Sarah and under one truck trailer, there were some guys who when we approached, said to Sarah that she is walking with a beautiful girl. LOL! I really want to get my hair done soon to be more like African man. Although most men cut their hair to zero, then there is some rastas with long hair, but then it is always plaited or in dreads.

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Today we had to go to police station again, and as usually nothing got clearer for us. Well, little progress was that this time we went to some chief, but also he didn’t have any answers to us, other than come back again after few days. Anyway, Mariann bought herself a new phone. These are cheap here, but I can’t get a new camera. These are at least as expensive as in Estonia and I haven’t seen any Canons anyway.

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In the town Wesley picked us up with his own car – small pickup truck. So most of us, me included made a ride in back. Road was bumpy. We visited some places that have something to do with the project and finally went to Ainaptich school football pitch to practice for the match that should be tomorrow. There was around 30 players on the field at the same time, but it was still nice training. We have also gone to run last days, so it wasn’t even so hard.

After the match we walked to the place that is called Jerusalem. Around Eldoret we can travel the whole world in a very little time. Jerusalem, Hawaii, Paris, Gaza, London, these are all here. Well, not exactly the same as the real world places, but still. In Jerusalem we went to one hotel to have some cheap chapatis and chai. Chapatis are quite like pancakes, but not sweet (still very good and nutritious, and chai or white tea as they sometimes call it, is simply put a tea with milk (but probably everyone already knew that). Chai is very sweet and good. Then we went home with matatu. Joshuah, Sarah, Bosco and many others came with us just to send us home and then go back again. Or maybe as they now know where we live, then maybe they will visit us sometimes.

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Right now Eldoret is like three different places for me (not districts/estates, as it has lots of these): the town or town center (most interesting, but also more expensive, and there we get too much unwanted attention); Elgon View (place where we live, nothing else actually than our house and kiosk for some basic food stuff. Maybe after some time we explore it more); and slums as Jerusalem, Hawaii, Huruma, Kipkaren, Ainaptich, etc. Most of the people live in slums. Some in really bad conditions, some in pretty decent ones. Sarah lives in Ainaptich. We haven’t visited her home yet. Kate lives in Kipkaren, in quite modest house. Most of the people are happy with their lives (at least it seems so), and it seems they have enough money to manage. In some cases even more. Today Sarah bought a juice (not the cheapest drink here) and said that tomorrow she will buy for me. I said that maybe it should be me who buys for her, but she didn’t agree. We were supposed to be guests. Anyway, tomorrow we’ll go to dance club and then I certainly do a drink for her.

Basically no-one seems to think about in how bad conditions, in the middle of garbage piles, often even without electricity, they live. No-one is ashamed of their home. Happily they could welcome you at their place. I like it, but toilets even in the town center are really awful.. and of course the garbage problem. We live in Elgon View as some kings and sometimes this feels weird. Well yes, I like our house and that we have decent conditions.

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Today when we ate dinner, we had accidentally one empty place and then I said that it is for those we miss. At first I said it without much thought, just for easy talk, but then feelings conquered me. I don’t miss Estonia, but my people, my friends. I like our local acquaintances/friends and basically our group. Sometimes I just would like that I could simply take a train or hitchhike to visit my friends. I think about you!

Namna gani? – What’s up?

Kenyan Idol

After the English version there is also translation to Estonian.

27. January

Kenya is sun, hotness, music, amazing views, lots of green nature with blossoms everywhere, red soil and other colours, pimped up matatus (small busses), intensive communicating, terrible roads, laughing, quite fanatical Christianity, poor people who are usually still good people with positive view of life. I’m totally in love with this country. Already now it came to my mind that one day I have to leave this place and it made me tad sad. I will certainly start searching possibility how to come back here.

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We just drove from Eldoret to east. To the Rift Valley again. Rift Valley Is like a great canyon that starts from Ethiopia and goes through the middle of the Kenya, Tanzania and in Malawi it goes into Indian ocean. It is really wide and deep. At the Kerio Valley (the exact location we went this time) I think it is at least 1 km deep. Of course this wonder of the world haven’t been created by river like normal canyons, but by splitting continental plates.

But first we visited one sport club, where we probably come back to swim. We saw a lot of white people there. In town we had so far seen only few. But yesterday one German man came to talk with us. As a first thing he asked if we are from Estonia. What? Of course I weared the university shirt this day, from what he read that out. Yet at first I didn’t understand that and I was really surprised how someone could know that. In shop I also saw one nice white girl who smiled at me, but as I had to move on quickly, I couldn’t talk with her.

Anyway, after the sport club we rode to the Kerio cliffs. Unbelievable views! With three steps/terraces the canyon is really so deep, that the bottom is lighter like all the things that are far away. On the edge the altitude was around 2500 meters. So bottom should be around 1500 m from sea level. And what a wonderful rock formations! In some places rocks are like fingers that stretch out from the ground, as some giant would rip the earth into two. The other side was so far that cliffs were absolutely blue. In bottom it is the land of the winds. After every little while some whirlwind lifted up the pillar of dust.

We went down one level, to the nice place called Lelin camp resides. As I understood the owner of this place was the good friend of Wesley. In that paradise we ate the lunch, just rested and talked about our countries and about the politics with the neighbors. Kenyans are really interested about European countries, people, the ways and conditions of living. And also we got to know some things about Kenya and their neighbors.

When we rode back, we visited Wheatfield School. The same one where two of us are needed as teachers. Now it is so that me and Mariann can’t go, and basically I/we think that the reason is because all the time Swedish girls really sucked up to our local supervisors. So Elsa and Sarah will go, and actually when to think now, then it is good. Finally we’ll get rid of them. They have only created bad atmosphere. All other of us are much more bonded, and understanding. Moreover, although people at this school were really warmhearted, it actually scares me that this place is so deeply catholic. And of course I like the place and company where we live now.

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Yesterday we visited few schools at Eld. East. We walked quite a way. Most of the time I talked with Sarah and Kate, very cool and pretty local girls. Sarah promised to do me either afro-braids or dreads sometime in the future. She also said that she could take me and Carlos to do some rock climbing. Also they teach us some Swahili. I think we should invite them to some dance club soon.

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Now sometimes it seems to me that Mariann is little bit trying to create some distance from me. Well yeah, maybe I was bit too insistent sometimes and searching the closeness with her too much. Let it be! Also, although I would prefer her to locals, I would say that probability to get something with Kate or Sarah is bigger. It is bit weird that although interest between Carlos and Helen has been really obvious, it seems, that now also Carlos has an eye up for Sarah. But that is enough for moment about such complex things.

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Today we visited two schools in Eld. South. It was unbelievable. In both we were greeted by kids as some real superstars. I can’t guess how many of them had never seen a white people. Anyway they were really delighted. In the first school they instantly stormed to us, as everyone of them had to touch the white skin. We had to use both hands for greeting them and these both hands were still swallowed by tens of boys and girls at the same time. Sometimes it really felt that I will be dragged to the ground under their feet. In other school they started jumping excitedly and danced and singed some time before they were sent to the classes. Also we went to the principal’s office for a while, but later when we came out and went to see the “sport field”, also their classes were finished. Literally again the mass of little black children flowed towards us. They surrounded us completely. When we moved (if we could), all this circle around us moved along. One little boy who had fallen, escaped the trampling by others only thanks to Mariann’s helping hand. At first boy cried, but as soon as he saw that it was mzungu who helped him up, he instantly ceased it. Children followed us by the street through the slum, until we stepped through the gate of Kate’s home. That isn’t even like in a movie anymore, but as from some fantastic epical tale. Really I felt such happiness that tear came to my eye, and now thinking back to it, again. White human is for them almost like god. They admire us, they await great deeds and they offer everything best they have (kind of like making offerings) and often hoping that we can give them happiness (gifts, money, sometimes just friendship) or take them to paradise (Europe or America). Well ok, not gods in a direct meaning as Christianity is really strong here, but at least so they act. At least we are their great idols.

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Funny is that Kate sent me an SMS message last night, wishing me good night, but she wrote my name as THORNO.. like Thor, the prime god of Northlands. Another interesting thing with my name is that in Kalenjin (the tribe, or actually tribal union of both Kate and Sarah) language, there is similar word Taunet, that means the beginning and/or genesis.

Everyone here knows what tribe they are descended from and sometimes they speak in their own tribal language. Roots are strong but basically because the 2008 post-election violence was actually a fight between the tribes, they now try to be tolerant and friendly to everyone and see tribalism as bad as corruption or even homosexualism.

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As I already said, the other thing that is deep-rooted in this society is Christianity (I wouldn’t call it a real Catholicism, but the power of faith, dogmas and fanaticism are as strong here). One guy who visits the schools with us, is really religious. He is saying prayers all the time. Also Christian songs are widely popular here. Probably even more than traditional ones. This man whom I was talking about, tried to teach us one. Everyone singed, but not me, after what came of course the question why. I didn’t have a heart to say that I’m not a Christian. I was quiet some time, thinking what kind of answer may disturb them and how tolerant they really are about questions regarding religion. But then suddenly someone else proposed that maybe I’m just listening carefully, learning all the words and that my soul sings inside. Let it be! But from Caroline who already had invited us to join her in the church, I asked if I could or should go to church if I’m not Christian. She took it really well and said that yes, certainly I both may and should go.

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At Kate’s place it was funny that on the walls there were pictures of holy family, photos of probably Kate’s brothers, Bob Marley, rooster and chicken with some chicklings, poster of Manchester United, picture of some nice looking food (cakes and some other stuff) and other poster of some action hero whose face was covered with the photo of probably again her brother. Also busses have some kind of religious phrases, catchwords or names written on them. Or sometimes these have something like “Coolest”, what is written on the matatu that already three days has driven us around. Yes, these small busses with all the paintwork, bling and neon lights, not to mention the loud music that comes from inside, are actually already seeming quite cool. Also shops have sometimes names that have something to do with religion, but not so often. Today I saw a “Baraka Shop”, and because for me the word Baraka was known as movie title, I wanted to know what it means. It means blessing.

Sere – blessings, but also means many or a lot (in Kalenjin)

Mungu akubariki – God bless you (in Swahili)

Keenia Superstaar

27. jaanuar

Keenia on päike, kuumus, muusika, piltilusad vaated, palju rohelust ja õisi, punane muld, ära pimpitud matatud (väikebussid), intensiivne suhtlemine, hirmsad teed, naermine, fanaatiline kristlus, vaesed ja ometi enamasti head ja positiivse ellu suhtumisega inimesed. Mao olen sellesse paika totaalselt ära armunud. Juba praegu tuli mul pähe, et ühel hetkel pean ma siit ära minema ja see tegi meele veidi kurvaks. Ma hakkan kindlasti otsima võimalust kuidas siia tagasi tulla.

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Sõitsime just Eldoretist ida poole. Jälle Rift Valley juurde. Rift Valley on nagu tohutu suur kanjon mis algab Etioopiast, läheb läbi Keenia, Tansaania ning lõpuks Malawis läheb India ookeani. See on tõesti väga sügav ja lai. Kerio Valley’s (meie seekordne täpsem sihtpunkt) on see kindlasti vähemalt kilomeetri sügavune. Muidugi ei ole see loodusime tekkinud jõe uuristatuna nagu tavalised kanjonid, vaid tekkis kuna mandrilaamad eemalduvad sellel alal üksteisest.

Aga kõigepealt käisime ühes spordiklubis, kuhu tuleme ilmselt tagasi ujuma. Seal nägime päris palju valgeid. Linnas oleme vaid mõnda üksikut kohanud. Eile tuli üks sakslane ise meiega rääkima. Esimese asjana küsis kas me oleme Eestist. Mis asja? Loomulikult oli mul ülikooli särk seljas ja sealt ta selle siis välja lugeski, aga algul küll ei saanud üldse aru, et kuidas saab nii moodi ära arvata. Hull üllatus oli. Poes nägin ka ühte toredat valget tüdrukut, kes mulle naeratas, aga kuna pidin kohe edasi liikuma, ei saanud temaga rääkida.

Niisiis, pärast spordiklubi sõitsime Kerio järskudele kuristikele. Uskumatud vaated. Kolme astmega langeb kanjon tõesti nii sügavale, et põhjas olev on heledam nagu ikka kaugete asjade puhul juhtub. Üleval äärel oli kõrgus merepinnast 2500 meetri kandis, seega põhi kuskil 1500. Ja millised imelised kivimoodustised seal olid. Mõnes kohas meenutasid kivikamakad sõrmi, mis maa seest välja sirutusid justkui üritaks keegi hiiglane maad kaheks rebida. Kanjoni vastaskülg oli nii kaugel, et mäed näisid täiesti sinised. Põhjas on aga tuulte elupaik. Iga natukese aja tagant tõstis mõni tuulekeeris üles tolmusamba.

Ühe astme jagu sõitsime mööda mäekülge alla, kus asus Lelin Camp’i nimeline imeline puhkekeskus. Kui ma õigesti aru sain, siis selle omanik oli Wesley hea sõber. Selles paradiisis sõime me lõunat, vedelesime niisama ja rääkisime nii oma maadest kui ka poliitikast naabritega. Keenialased on väga huvitatud Euroopa riikidest, rahvastest, eluviisidest ja –oludest. Ka meie saime Keenia ja nende naabrite kohta üht teist teada.

Kui me tagasi sõitsime, siis külastasime ka Wheatfieldi kooli. Seda sama, kuhu kahte meist oleks õpetajateks vaja. Nüüd on siis nii, et mina ja Mariann ei saa sinna. Põhjus selles, et Rootsi tüdrukud pugesid täiega meie kohalike ülemuste ees. Wesley teatas, et need, kes sinna õpetama lähevad, on Sara ja Elsa, aga tegelikult kui nüüd järele mõelda, siis hea ongi. Lõpuks ometi saame neist lahti. Nad on vaid tekitanud halba õhkkonda. Kõik teised on palju arusaavamad ja omavahel paremini sobivamad. Pealegi, kuigi inimesed selles koolis olid väga südamlikud, hakkas mind hirmutama asjaolu, et see koht nii sügavalt katoliiklik on. Ja loomulikult meeldib mulle siingi kus praegu elame ja meie seltskond.

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Eile käisime Eld. East’i (Ida-Eldoret) mõningaid koole külastamas. Paraja maa kõndisime maha. Enamuse aega rääkisin ma väga lahedate ja kenade kohalike tüdrukute, Sarah ja Kate’ga. Sarah lubas mulle kas afropatsid või dreadid teha millalgi. Samuti ütles ta, et võib mind ja Carlost viia mägironimist tegema. Loomulikult õpetavad nad meile ka juba veidi suahiili keelt. Ma mõtlen, et me Carlosega võiks nad varsti millalgi klubisse tantsima kutsuda.

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Vahel tundub nüüd, et Mariann üritab minust veidi distantsi hoida. Nojah, eks ma vist olin ka väheke liiga pealetükkiv ja otsisin tema lähedust liiga tihti. Las siis olla nii! Pealegi, kuigi ma eelistaksin kohalikele tüdrukutele teda, on palju tõenäolisem, et muutun Kate’I või Sarah’ga lähedasemaks. On üpris veider , et kuigi Carlose ja Heleni vaheline huvi oli väga ilmne, tundub nüüd, et ka Carlos heidab nüüd silma Sarah’le. Aga aitab ka hetkeks sellistest keerulistest asjadest.

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Täna käisime kahes Eld. South’i (lõunas) koolis. Täiesti uskumatu. Mõlemas võtsid lapsed meid vastu nagu tõeliseid superstaare. Ei teagi kui paljud neist üldse valget inimest näinud polnud. Igal juhul olid nad ülimas vaimustuses. Esimeses koolis jooksid nad kohe meie peale tormi, sest igaüks pidi ju valget nahka katsuma. Nende tervitamiseks pidime mõlemad käed kasutusele võtma ja ikka mattusid me mõlemad käed kümnete väikeste mustade käekeste alla. Vahel oli täitsa tunne, et on oht kukkuda nende jalge alla. Teises koolis hakkasid nad meid nähes hüppama, laulma ja tantsima, aga pidid kohe varsti tundi minema. Ka meie läksime vahepeal direktori kabinetti, aga kui me sealt välja tulime ja läksime „spordiväljakut“ vaatama, siis lõppesid ka lastel tunnid ja kohe voolas meie ümber väikeste mustade laste mass. Kui meie liikusime (juhul muidugi kui me üldse liikuda saime), liikus ka ühtlaselt meie ümber lastepundar meie ümber. Üks väike poiss pääses teiste poolt jalge alla trampimisest vaid tänu Marianni hoolitsevale abikäele. Algul poiss nuttis, aga kohe kui, et see, kes ta püsti tõstis oli mzungu, jättis järgi. Lapsed jälitasid meid isegi koolist välja, mööda aguli tänavat kuni me lõpuks Kate’i koduni jõudsime ja väravast sisse astusime. See ei tundu enam isegi mitte nagu filmis vaid nagu mõnes fantastilises eepilises jutus. Tõsiselt selline rõõm tekkis, et pisar tuli silma ja nüüd sellele mõeldes uuesti. Valge inimene on siin peaaegu nagu jumal. Meid armastatakse, imetletakse, meilt oodatakse suuri tegusid, meile pakutakse kõike paremat mis neil on (enam vähem nagu ohverduste tegemine) ja loodetakse, et me neile omapoolse õnnistusega vastaksime (kingid, raha, enamasti on nad aga lihtsalt juba meie tundmisest õnnelikud. Ok, päris jumalaga nad meid muidugi samastada ei saa, aga umbes nii nad meisse suhtuvad küll. Nimetagem meid siis Keenia iidoliteks.

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Naljakas oli lugeda, kui Kate mulle eile õhtul SMS’i saatis, soovimaks head ööd, aga nimeks kirjutas THORNO.. nagu Thor, põhjala peajumal. Teine huvitav asi mu nimega on see, et Kate’i ja Sarah hõimu (vüi tegelikult hõimude liidu), Kalenjin’i keeles on samuti mu nimele väga sarnane sõna taunet, mis tähendab algust või isegi genesist (kogu maailma teket).

Kõik siin teavad, mis hõimust nad pärit on ja vahel räägivad nad omavahel ka oma hõimu keeles. Juured on tugevad, aga põhimõtteliselt kuna 2008 aasta valimiste järgne möll oli tegelikult võitlus hõimude vahel, siis nüüd nad üritavad olla kõigi suhtes võimalikult tolerantsed ja sõbralikud ning peavad tribalismi (hõimustumist) võrdväärselt halvaks korruptsiooni või isegi homoseksuaalsusega.

Nagu juba öeldud, teine asi, mis selles ühiskonnas väga tugevalt juurdunud, on kristlus (Katoliikluseks ma seda muidugi küll ei nimetaks, aga usu tugevus ja fanaatilisus ning dogmad on küll sellele sarnased). Üks mees, kes meiega koolides kaasa käib, on eriti usklik.. loeb pidevalt palveid. Ka kristlikud laulud on siin väga populaarsed/levinud. Võib olla, et isegi rohkem kui traditsionaalsed. Ühte üritas see sama mees meile õpetada. Kõik teised peale minu laulsid. Seepeale tuli küsimus, et miks mina mitte. Kohe mitte ei olnud sel hetkel südant öelda, et ma pole kristlane. Olin vait mõeldes, et kuidas nad millisele vastusele reageeriksid ja kui tolerantsed nad usuküsimustes ikkagi on, aga siis keegi pakkus, et äkki ma lihtsalt kuulan hoolikalt, õpin sõnu pähe ja, et samaaegselt mu hing seesmiselt laulab. Las siis olla! Samas kodus Caroline’lt kes meid juba endaga kaasa kirikusse kutsus, küsisin küll, et kas ma mitte kristlasena üldse tohiksin või peaksin kirikusse minema. Tema võttis asja küll väga normaalselt ja ütles, et muidugi võin ja ikkagi peaksin tulema.

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Kate’i kodus oli naljakas, et seintel rippusid üksteise kõrval pildid pühast perekonnast, foto siis ilmselt tema vendadest, Bob Marley, kukk, kana ja tibudega, Manchester United’i poster, pilt kookidest ja muust väga uhkest söögist ja siis veel üks poster mingist märulifilmi kangelasest, kelle näo asemele oli pandud jällegi ilmselt tema venna foto. Ka bussidel on tihti suurelt peale kirjutatud mingeid religioosseid sõnakõlkse või nimesid. Või siis midagi sellist nagu „Coolest“, mis on meid juba kolmandat päeva vedaval matatul. Nojah, kusjuures hakkavad juba need ära maalitud, blingi ja neoonvalgustusega varustatud ja muidugi valju muusikaga masinad päris lahedad tunduma tõesti. Ka poodidel on mõni kord nimi kuidagi kristlusest pärit. Näiteks täna nägin „Baraka Shop’i“ ja kuna mulle oli Baraka tuttav filmi nimena, siis olin huvitatud, et mis see tähendab. Õnnistust tähendab.

Sere – õnnistus, samas võib ka tähendada paljut või mitut ( Kalenjin’i keeles)

Mungu akubariki – jumal õnnistagu sind (Suahiili)

Bad juju (juju means witchcraft of Africa)

(translation to Estonian is following the English one)

This text is from 25. January

Continuously I wake before the alarm. Actually now two last days I have even waked up before all the rest. Health is also good, but I think I have lost quite many kilos of weight. One day we went running with Love. It was extremely hard, but probably after some times I already have more endurance and strength.

Yesterday was Joshuah’s birthday and we went to lunch to one really posh hotel. A real one, as actually most eating places outside the town center are called hotel and butchery. After that I and Mariann decided to explore the town a little and visit the market. We went quite far to the west, where I think some industrial areas start. There we met a man who organizes rock climbing. I took his contacts. It seemed that at the west side of the town there are more Muslims. There was a little mosque and actually also quite big Hindu temple. Mariann wanted to buy some french fries, so we went to some small “hotel” owned by Muslims. But salesman probably heard that she wants rice. Here they call french fries as chips. It was almost dusk time and we hurried to get back to the central town. So we took a shortest road. It was a bad choice. Suddenly a posse of chokora’s (street robbers) came around us. Mariann had a little chance to protect her bag. And after I realized that she is also in danger, I couldn’t go to help her anymore, as there were three guys for both of us. Two just held us and one tried to grab whatever we had in hands. For me it was actually good that they don’t search the pockets, as I had all the money in pocket of the pants. From me they took only the photo camera. I fought back as much as I could and thanks to that some good people saw this thing happening and came to help us, but they were just a few moments too late. For quite a long time I held my camera and finally I ripped a shirt of one guy into pieces, but now I wish I could have given him also a proper blue eye. These street boys really can’t fight, they are not strong, but their numbers, surprising and fast tactics are enough. At least these guys who came to help us, called the police and finally they gave us ride to the police station. They also said that these boys are known and there is even possibility that we could get our things back. A friend of one man was policeman and he said that police may make a raid to the place where these boys live. Also otherwise bothersome gluekids came to help us. As Mariann had some documents in the bag, they promised that they try to get at least these back. And they did

It seemed that even the arrival of the police takes hundred years here, but as exactly at that time the entire town had an electrical blackout, then it may be somewhat understandable. Then again, when they came, then there were four or five men per street, armed with an automatic rifle. Also other closest streets were checked and maybe some of them went also down the hill where thieves escaped.

Also in the police station, everyone seemed quite sure that thieves will be found and arrested, but I don’t know how probable it could be. Too bad if I really have lost my camera – in Kenya and no pictures.

Today morning we visited KESOFO office and then we went to hotel Asis (another true hotel) to the meeting, where we were supposed to get some clearer view about the things we will do here. We made some plans, but in general, things are still uncertain. Mariann and I talked with one guy from KESOFO supported Wheatfield school to go there to teach children. But there are lots of problems. We should basically live there and only come to house at weekends, but this school is really religious and therefore the dormitories of boys and girls are separated. In the girls dorm there is room, but not in the one for boys. Then again, Wesley doesn’t want to let Mariann go alone either. Of course Sara and Elsa from Sweden have also now made clear that they want to go there. Why, I don’t know – they are not teachers. Anyway, that would also be great, because right now they have created conflicts with others. They accused us of a little thankfulness and of laughing over Kenyans. Everything was absolutely taken out of context and it seems that they don’t have any open mind, ability to take it easy nor any understanding of Kenyan cultural differences. For me it has always seemed that locals are quite happy with us. Our really innocent jokes are actually very similar to the ones Kenyans make by themselves. At the same time Swedish girls have sweared along with Carlos and laughed to each other’s and Carlos’ bad words. One thing that is really rude in Kenya is swearing. What also angers us, is that they really suck up to our Kenyan supervisors. They live as they still would be in Europe and act towards others quite superciliously.

Anyway, today we went to the police station again, but we couldn’t talk with the investigator, so tomorrow we go back again. For some reason I had to pay to them 150 shillings (it isn’t much, but now I would expect good results). Or maybe I should have paid even more to raise their enthusiasm to work.

So, quite bad news this time.

Some Swahili words too:

Hakuna matata – don’t worry

Furaini – be happy (plural)

Furahi – be happy (singular)

Pole pole – don’t hurry; we have time

Paha juju (juju tähendab Aafrikas nõidust)

See tekst pärineb 25. jaanuarist.

Endiselt ärkan ma enne äratuskella helinat. Või tegelikult nüüd kaks viimast päeva olen lausa esimesena ärganud. Tervis on ka hea. Kaalus olen küll vist päris mitu kilo alla võtnud. Ükspäev käisime Love’ga jooksmas. Ülimalt raske oli, aga küllap mõne ajaga suudan juba paremini.

Eile oli Joshuah sünnipäev ja me läksime ühte hotelli sööma ja jooma. Päris hotelli (seda ütlen seepärast, et tegelikult on siin põhimõtteliselt kõik väikesed söögikohad nimetatud „hotell ja tapamaja“. Pärast seda läksime Marianniga linna avastama ja turule. Läksime päris kaugele lääne poole, kus algavad vist tööstus alad. Seal kohtasime ühte meest, kes korraldab mägironimise asju. Võtsime tema kontaktid. Linna läänepoolses osas tundub rohkem islamlaste asustust olevat. Väike mošee ja päris korralik hindu tempel asuvad seal ka. Mariann tahtis osta frii kartuleid (french fries). Seega käisime ühes moslemite söögikohas. Muidu täitsa ok rahvas, kuigi nad vist ei osanud meid sinna oodata. Pealegi ost läks imelikult. Ilmselt kuulis müüja, et Mariann tahab hoopis riisi (rice), seega seda talle ka toodi – kilekotis koos sooja soustiga. Siin nimetatakse friikaid hoopis chipsideks. Päike hakkas vaikselt loojuma ja seega üritasime otseteed kesklinna tagasi minna, aga valisime halva tänava. Ühel hetkel tuli kamp chokora’sid (tänavaröövleid) meie ümber. Mariannil polnud väga võimalik oma kotti kaitsta ja hetkeks kui ma mõistsin, et ka tema ohus on, ei saanud ma enam talle appi minna. Kaks hoidsid meid kätest kinni ja üks üritas võtta, mis iganes meil käes on. Minu jaoks oli see tegelikult hea, et nad taskuid läbi ei otsinud, kuna kogu mu raha oli siis pükste taskus. Minult võtsid nad vaid fotoka. Ma võitlesin vastu nii kuis suutsin ja tänu sellele nägid mõned head kohalikud meid hädas ja püüdsid appi tulla, aga nad jäid siiski mõned sekundid hiljaks. Päris tükk aega hoidsin ma kaamerast kinni ja lõpuks rebisin ühe tüübi särgi ka pooleks, aga nüüd hiljem ma kahetsen, et ma oleksin pidanud üritama ühele neist sinise silmaaluse andma. Need tänavapoisid ei suuda tegelikult võidelda, nad ei ole tugevad, aga nende arvuline ülekaal, kiire ja üllatav taktika on küllalt. Jah, need appi rutanud mehed aitasid meil siiski politsei kutsuda ja päris lõpuks viisid meid ka politsei jaoskonda. Lisaks ütlesid nad, et tunnevad neid poisse ja, et on üpris suur võimalus, et saame juba hommikuks oma asjad tagasi. Ühe mehe sõber oli politseinik (ja kuigi ta tuli kohale ilmses joobes), rääkis ta, et politsei võib nende varaste elukohta reidi korraldada. Isegi muidu tülikad liimipoisid tulid sel korral hoopis appi. Mariannil oli kotis mingeid dokumente ja kaarte ja need liimipoisid lubasid vähemalt need tagasi tuua ja tõidki.

Isegi politsei tulek tundub siin mõnisada aastat aega võtvat, aga kuna just sel hetkel oli ka kogu linna hõlmav elektrikatkestus, siis võib olla saab seda normaalseks pidada. Samas kui nad lõpuks kohale jõudsid, siis oli ikka neli või viis automaadiga relvastatud meest tänava kohta. Ka teisi lähimaid tänavaid kontrolliti ning ehk läks mõni neist ka mäest alla kuhu vargad põgenesid.

Ka politsei jaoskonnas olid kõik üsna kindlad, et vargad saadakse kätte, kuid kui tõenäoline see on? Jama küll, kui ma oma fotokast nüüd jäädavalt ilma olen – Keenias ja ilma piltideta.

Täna hommikul külastasime KESOFO kontorit ja seejärel läksime hotell ASIS’i (veel üks päris hotell) koosolekule, kus me pidime saama selgema pildi sellest, mis meist nüüd edasi saab. Me tegime mõned plaanid, aga üldiselt on ikka asjad segased. Mina ja Mariann rääkisime ühe mehega KESOFO toetusega Wheatfield’i koolist, et sinna lapsi õpetama pääseda. Aga sellega on kõvasti probleeme. Me peaksime suurema aja seal elama (see on linnast mingi u. 10 km.) ja ainult nädalavahetustel majja tagasi tulema, aga see kool on väga religioosne ja seega on seal poiste ja tüdrukute ööbimiskohad eraldi. Tüdrukute omas pidi ruumi veel olema aga poiste omas mitte. Wesley ei taha aga ka Marianni üksi sinna lasta. Nüüd on muidugi ka Elsa ja Sarah avaldanud tahtmist sinna minna. Miks küll, seda ma ei tea. Nad ei ole ju õpetaja haridusega. Nüüd oleks ka see variant hea tegelikult, sest nad on kõigi ülejäänutega konflikti suutnud üles keerutada. Nad süüdistasid meid väheses tänulikkuses ja keenialaste üle naermises. Kõik see oli absoluutselt kontekstist välja rebitud ja üldse on tunne, et neil ei ole mitte mingisugustki avatud meelt, oskust asju rahulikult võtta ega ka arusaama Keenia kultuurilistest eripäradest. Minu arust on kohalikud igati meiega rahul olnud. Meie igati süütud naljad on väga sarnased keenialaste endi omadega. Samas on Rootsi tüdrukud ise kõvasti ropendanud ja Carlose roppuste peale naernud, aga just see on siin üks väga halvaks pandav asi. Peale selle ajab meid vihale, et nad täiega poevad keenialastest ülemuste ees. Nad elavad justkui oleks endiselt Euroopas ja käituvad teiste suhtes üleolevalt.

Igaljuhul, täna läksime uuesti politsei jaoskonda, aga me ei saanud uurijaga rääkida ja seega läheme homme jälle. Miskipärast pidin ma asja alustamiseks 150 shillingut maksma. Seega ootaks nüüd häid tulemusi. Või tegelikult oleks ehk pidanud rohkem maksma, et nad oma tööd tõsiselt võtaks.

Et siis seekord olid üpris halvad uudised.

Mõned suahiili keelsed sõnad ka:

Hakuna matata – pole probleemi; ära muretse

Furaini – olge õnnelikud

Furahi – ole õnnelik

Pole pole – rahulikult; aeglaselt; meil on aega küll

Photos

Before next entry just a notice that you can find photos of our Kenya adventure at my orkut site.. slowly I upload more and more of these there. You can find a link on the sidebar here in my blog. Also there are few photos at my deviantart site. These are the ones I have really made by myself.. with the cameras of others as my own camera was stolen in our first days in Eldoret. No biggie, but it means that my photos will be quite rare, but I hope that also better. Read about the real action from the next blog entry. And yes, also the link to my DA site should be here on the sidebar.

Enne järgmist sissekannet lihtsalt väike teadaanne, et pilte meie Keenia seiklustest võite leida nüüd mu orkuti lehelt. Aeglaselt lisan ma neid aina juurde. Olge kannatlikud. Lingi õigesse kohta võite leida siit samast blogi küljejoonelt. Ka mu deviantarti leht kannab mõnda fotot, mille ma olen tõesti ise teinud.. teiste aparaatidega, sest mu enda oma varastati esimeste päevade jooksul ära. Aga pole hullu.. see tähendab vaid seda, et mu enda fotod on üpris haruldased, aga loodetavasti ka tavalisest paremad. Sellest fotoka varastamise põhiaktsioonist saate järgmisest blogi sissekandest lugeda. Ja loomulikult peab veel lisama, et ka link mu DA lehele peaks siin olemas olema.

Swahili words/Suahiili keele sõnavara:
Sawa - ok

Kenya, here I am!

Written in the third day in Kenya: (this post has a version translated to Estonian)

Note: some things have changed a lot since I wrote this post.

My first flights. Really wicked! I must say, that now I’m again very sorry that I didn’t get to go to the Flying College. Plane’s acceleration and take off are cool and turning even more. But differences of pressure made my stomach even more problematic. Already for few days it had been aching, now I finally understood that it was because of serious constipation. Gases pressed hard but didn’t come out. Ok, now I’m already feeling well. First two flights pretty much sucked (Although feeling of flying itself was fun), because we didn’t get anything to eat freely and after the takeoff it was quite boring. But already on the flight to London, when landing we had the first WOW moment. Weather was cloudy and so we all waited impatiently at the windows to see anything and then suddenly we passed the clouds and saw all of that sea of lights.

As soon as we touched the ground we could see the next plane, and further away another one. Heathrow really has a lots of air traffic. Unlike Stockholm-Arlanda Airport inside was also colourful and full of people. The plane to Nairobi was bigger and of course we got finally something to eat. Also we could get some drinks all the time. I again became to like cola. In Kenya too, the sodas and cola drinks are very popular. Time flew fast and of course the flying through the time zones to the east helped along. Morning came so soon that I could not get any sleep at all. View from the windows was to the desert. But on landing in Nairobi we saw lots of green. Grass, we missed for it so much.. and palm trees.. many different kinds of palms. When stepping to the airport, I suddenly felt a tremendous heat. Now after the few days we have become used to that. Sometimes I feel tiredness because of that, but other than that it is really nice climate. My first true African cultural experience also found place at the airport, more accurately at the toilet where one local guy washed his feet at the sink. By the way, today Love (from Sweden and not a girl at all; his name is actually pronounced Luuve) asked me if he may wash his feet at the sink (because we are in one room), that doesn’t it bother me/feel weird. So then I said: „No problem, it is Africa.“ Here almost anything is “no problem”, just as I thought.

Most of the first day we were on the road to Eldoret. We rode with the small van (matatu), all of us ten, our baggage, Wesley and the driver. It was really tight, hot and still very cool. Now we are even used to that kind of rides. All the transportation is always packed full of people. People is always smiling and laughing and it is contagious. Air is filled with positive feelings and natural free being. What else you would need? For some of us it is little bit uncomfortable, that we are under the constant attention, but I knew that it’ll going to be like that, and I could even say that weirdly I like it. You know me!

Yet, on the way to Eldoret, we stopped at Rift Valley. There even I felt bad when all the salesmen tried to sell us all the pointless junk and to get what ever foreign coins to the collection of their kids. Certainly, now in Eldoret also beggar kids run after us (or sometimes even grownups. Now imagine if beggars would run all the time after you in Estonia/Europe and wouldn’t cease asking for money), but we soon learned to ignore them.

On the ride to Eld we already saw lots of different Kenya – nature and ways of living. We saw countless zebras. They are as common on the lower and hotter areas as cows, or no, actually I think cows are still more numerous. Once we also saw a family of baboons walking by the road. When we got to the highlands area, cactuses and palms became rare, being replaced with different leaf and conifer trees. It seemed even that there were regular pines. Acacia trees (that are the very symbol of Africa) are of course also here. And everywhere is the red dirt.

In the first evening we basically didn’t go out from the house. At first the house was absolutely empty, but soon workmen brought us beds, table and chairs. We also got some kitchenware and something to eat. No, actually house wasn’t completely empty, wardrobe were there and in kitchen we found a small gas cooker. In the first evening Lithuanian boys prepared the meal, but now we have Caroline, who basically helps us with different household jobs and mostly prepares the food. At least stomach was full and at that night I got a decent sleep. What’s even weirder, my day and night got corrected just like that. Fine, as we sometimes have parties in the evenings right now (we have few birthdays here in the row), we may get to the sleep at the two ‘o clock or so, but really, I have every day waked up without the alarm around seven or eight.

Second day started with peaceful lying on the ground, in what we possibly soon will come to masters (following the example of locals). Some of us wrote and drew a little. Some practiced break dance with Love and most just played with Kenzie (little daughter of Caroline). All the airplanes, somersaults, throwing of different things and just running around were done, but girl was really tireless. With only one day we won the trusts of both at first extremely silent and modest mother and although very energetic, but to strangers not very trusting girl. Estonian girls said that Caroline became even too open, telling lots of personal things at once.

In the evening of second night we with Mariann and Justas, decided to go to the town, even though soon it was soon going to be dark. That was cool. Town at night is twice as interesting as at daytime. At first we went to one posh pub (or actually the lobby bar of possibly most expensive hotel here. For the beginning it was good enough, as I even enjoyed the good service and comfort. But prices were high (of course not in the sense of Estonia or Europe) and there we couldn’t satisfy our need for true African cultural feeling. Because of that we soon went to one simpler pool pub. There was live music and atmosphere you can´t even see in movies – people danced insanely. Also instantly we got to be the center of interest. Everyone wanted to get acquainted with us and to ask or talk about something. We went to bar, that at first was blocked by locals, but soon a guy came from the back of the room who cleared the way for us, at the same time saying something like: „Let the Wazungu to buy beers“. Wazungu means white people in Swahili, and that they say to us all the time. It doesn’t have any bad meaning. We got our beers and sat to the table by some local man. We talked with him for a while, but as time passed, more and more people gathered around us. Security guards of the pub sent some of them away, but finally things still got pretty uncomfortable for us. Still we were very happy about our choice to go there and probably we also go back. Surely they soon get used to us.

At evening Helen beautified me with her jewelry and then we ate oat biscuits grandma made, and talked about our first thoughts of Kenya.

So, today is the third day. Joshua showed us some important places at the town. We had a lunch at the Chick Inn, where Mariann and I tried one national food made of maize flour – Ugali with chicken. Ugali itself is basically tasteless porridge, but it should be dipped to chicken or beef stew and pressed into onion and carrot salad. Eating it should be traditionally done with bare hands, what I actually like. I didn’t like Ugali very much and chicken is also usually cut here so that it is hard to eat the meat from the bones. Oh yeah.. when we moved around in the town, one little street boy started to follow us. At first he asked money from us, but after seeing that he won’t get it, he still decided to hang around with us half a day, until he finally got to eat with us. It was rather uncomfortable that he followed us everywhere, but finally I even felt sad about him. And without him I probably would have forgot my hat to the restaurant. By the way, first thing that Wesley, our prime local coordinator said to me, when he saw me at the airport, was that I have very good hat – protects me well from the sun. One of the Swedish girls already got sick in the first day, probably exactly because of the sun and hotness.

But okay, let’s continue with our present day in Eld. After the lunch we waited some guys with cars to go to watch a rugby game. At that time some guy tried to offer his daughter to Love for a wife. It was very funny. Yeah, girls are all the time under the interest of black men, and from time to time they try to get their phone numbers. Ok then, guys with the cars came. They had to be the most hip-hop looking boys in the city. Our car stopped on the way, but it seemed as for the car driver it was more worrying that the music also stopped. He called men from the street to push the car, as of course it would be weird if wazungu would do that. Also on the stadium there was a posse of funny hip-hop guys, who seemed really to perform to us. Joshua said that everyone really want to get our attention, to talk with us or whatever what to do. It is so because after the year 2008 unrests not many white people come to here. Even though there are some university students from America and England, white sportsmen/women training and some white guys also working on engineering, then our arrival was quite a big thing. At least so it seems. With those guys I mentioned before, we also played ourselves and basically we agreed to make an football match.

Ride home was in a small car with a cart, meaning that some of us, me included rode back in the cart. It is quite usual here and I liked it. On all the rides so far I have always been seated tightly between others. Not really comfortable.

Evening we had the birthday parties. Candles, incense, rum, guitar music and our own songs. Really cool.

I have become to like this place more and more. I feel myself really as at home - even more than in Estonia. We still have problems with the morning shower and I am not yet used to the foods here, but these are only small problems. But otherwise we have even more than we could wish for. By the way, Caroline made also ugali with chicken stew for the dinner (because it is the most common food here). At first I took only a little because of the experience at day, but it figures that even tasteless thing can be made better. Finally I took three times more. Of course I also was really hungry.

Now, when I’m finishing this chapter, it is the morning of the fourth day. I was first to wake up. Soon we should go to jogging with some of us – we start training here properly. For today we planned a free day for ourselves. We don’t go even to the church where Caroline really wants to take us. Here are real parties at the churches at evenings. Last night when we came home, we heard a loud music and crazy party noises ahead the road, and soon we found out that it came from church. Tomorrow we should start working. Few of us go to some school to teach children. That means that those people will live separately. One should be Mariann. Maybe I can get to be another. Although I would certainly miss the company (Yeah, in weekends we could come back to house, but all the workdays we would live there) and Eldoret town. Then again I have become to like Mariann a lot.. of course.. as she is natural redhead, with freckles, very good body and the personality that I like (also little bit like me). So if she would go, I would also miss her. Yet it would be better if I would not fall in love with her completely, as she has a boyfriend in Estonia, and this would make our life here much more complicated. Well, we’ll see, anyway it is good to talk with her and in the case I get depressed, lonely or homesick, it would be good to get support from her. Helen and Carlos seem to have also some feelings or something.

I have so much to write. All the time I remember some new details.. absolutely random ones. For example there grows a great fern tree in our yard, pink flowers on the hedges. At the night, moon creates almost as well contrasted shadows to the people as the streetlamps in town streets, but still town is filled with lights and colours. A kid running around in the house is very good for mood and doesn’t ever let us to feel bored. Africa is filled with sounds (both natural and those created by human civilization), smells and feelings. Nothing happens stoically. When you meet someone, when you leave him/her and sometimes even in the talk, there is handshaking and/or casual touching. All the time they are smiling and giving best wishes. Even if you don’t give coins to the street kids, most of them would like to greet a white person.. and they remind friendly. All the time people rise thumbs to ask if we are ok, and of course they await the similar gesture back.

By the way, I have shaked the hands with really dirty kiddos, drinked the water from the tab, but at least so far I haven’t got any sickness. In contrary, for example Helen, who after every handshake with any street kid rubs the anticeptic to her hands, and haven’t drinked anything except the bottle water, has a diarrhea today.

When I post it, I have actually already many, many chapters written on paper, but I really can’t type everything to computer at once. Also I have come to think about the language thing, as it is really hard to write it in two languages. So, until the next post!

KEENIA, SIIN MA OLEN!(tõlge eesti keelde)

Kirjutatud kolmandal päeval Keenias:

NB: mõned asjad on vahepeal kõvasti muutunud võrreldes ajaga, kui ma selle postituse kirjutasin.

Minu esimesed lennud. Väga lahe! Peab ütlema, et mul tekkis ülim kahjutunne, et ma lennukooli ei saanud õppima minna. Lennuki kiirendus ja õhkutõus on lahedad ja pööramine veelgi erilisem. Samas oli rõhuerinevus ilmselt see, mis mu kõhu veel hullemini keerama pani. Juba mõned päevad oli mu kõht valutanud, nüüd sain lõpuks aru, et põhjuseks on tõsine kõhukinnisus. Gaasid tekitasid probleeme, pressisid kõvasti peale, aga välja eriti ei tahtnud tulla. Ok, nüüd on olemine juba päris hea. Esimesed kaks lendu muidu sakkisid (välja arvatud siis lennu mõnud ise), sest süüa tasuta ei saanud ja lennukis polnud eriti midagi teha. Samas juba lennul Londonisse, kui maanduma hakkasime, tuli esimene ühest suust WOW moment. Ilm oli pilves ja nii me kõik ootasime kannatamatult akende juures, et midagi näha ja siis järsku jõudsimegi läbi pilvekihi ning nägime kogu seda tuledemerd.

Kohe kui maandusime oli aknast näha järgmist maanduvat lennukit ja eemal veel üht. Heathrow on ikka tõesti tiheda lennuliiklusega. Lennujaam seest oli ka kirev ja täis rahvast, mitte nii nagu Stockholm-Arlanda. Lennuk Nairobisse oli suurem ja loomulikult saime selles lõpuks ka süüa. Samuti sai seal ka igal ajal midagi juua võtta. Ma hakkasin uuesti cola fänniks. Keenias on ka limonaadid ja cola joogid väga levinud. Aeg läks kiiresti ja ajavahe aitas sellele muidugi kaasa. Hommik tuli varsti kätte ilma, et oleksin üldse maganud. Vaated lennukist olid kõrbele. Maandudes Nairobis aga nägime, et kõik kohad on rohelust täis. Rohi, me nii igatsesime su järele.. ja palmid.. mitmed erinevad palmid. Lennujaama astudes tundsin kohe meeletut, sel hetkel üpris väljakannatamatut kuumust. Ajapikku oleme sellega juba ära harjunud. Vahel lööb väsimuse peale, aga muidu on täitsa meeldiv. Esimene päris Aafrikalik kultuurikogemus sai ka osaks juba lennujaamas – läksin wc-sse ja seal pesi üks mees kraanikausis jalgu. Täna muide Love (Rootsist ja üldsegi mitte tüdruk; häälda Luuve) küsis minult, et kas ta võib oma jalgu kraanikausis pesta (sest me oleme ühes toas), et ega see mind ei sega/tundu imelik. Siis ma ütlesin: „No problem, see on ju Aafrika.“ Siin on suht kõik no probleem, just nagu ma arvasin.

Esimene päev kulus peaasjalikult Nairobist Eldoretti sõiduks. Sõitsime väikebussiga, kõik me kümme, meie pagas, Wesley ja juht. Väga kitsas, palav ja ometi väga lahe oli. Nüüdseks oleme ka sellise sõitmisega harjunud. Pidevalt on liiklusvahendid rahvast täis topitud. Ah jaa, kõik pidevalt naeravad ja naeratavad ning see on nakkav. Kogu aeg on positiivsed tunded ning loomulik, vaba olemine. Mida sa veel tahad? Mõnele meist on veidi häiriv, et me pideva tähelepanu all oleme, aga ma teadsin, et see nii hakkab olema ning isegi võib öelda, et mulle mingil imelikul moel see meeldib. Teate mind küll!

Enne Eldoretti peatusime Rift Valley’s. Seal oli küll nõme kuidas müügimehed igasugu mõttetut pudi üritasid pähe määrida ning muidu oma laste mündikogusse välisraha lunisid. Nüüd Eldoretis muidugi jooksevad ka kerjavad lapsed aegajalt järel (või noh vahel ka isegi täiskasvanud mehed (kujutage ette kui Eestis kerjus pidevalt järgi jookseks ega lõpetaks mangumist),aga meile õpetati, et lihtsalt ei tohi neist välja teha või siis peab ütlema, et münte pole.

Sõidul Eldi nägime juba väga palju erinevat Keeniat – loodust ja eluviise. Nägime lugematult sebrasid. Neid jalutab madalamal, soojemal alal sama palju ilmselt ringi kui lehmasid. Ei lehmasid on ilmselt siiski veidi rohkem. Ühe korra nägime ka ahvide perekonda. Mäestiku alale jõudes said kaktused ja palmid haruldaseks, asendudes erinevate leht ja okaspuudega. Tundus isegi, et täiesti harilikke mände oli. Laiaharalised lehtpuud (need, mis on Aafrika üheks tuntumaks sümboliks, on siiski ka siin. Loomulikult on kõikjal ka punase mulla paljandid.

Esimesel õhtul me põhimõtteliselt majast välja ei läinudki. Algul oli maja täiesti tühi, aga juba enne õhtut tõid töömehed meile voodid, laua, toolid. Saime ka söömise ja söögi tegemise vahendid. Ah ei, tegelikult ei olnud maja päris tühi. Kapid olid olemas ja köögikapis oli väike gaasipliit. Esimesel õhtul tegid leedu poisid süüa, nüüd on meil aga Caroline, kes on põhimõtteliselt igasuguste majapidamistööde juures abiks ning enamused söögikorrad toitu valmistab (küll jah.. õhtusöögi tegemisel on tavaliselt üks-kaks meist abiks). Kõht sai täis ja sel ööl sai lõpuks korralikult magada. Ja mis kõige veidram, mu ööpäev sai ka hetkega korda. Ok, kuna aegajalt on meil praegu õhtuti peod (tegelikult on meil järjest siin kahe vabatahtliku ja ühe kohaliku mentori sünnipäevad), seega magama võime saada alles ühe või kahe paiku, aga tõesti, hommikul ärkan täiesti ilma äratuseta seitsme-kaheksa ajal.

Teine päev algas rahuliku murulvedelemisega, milles me kohalike eeskujul varsti ilmselt meistriks saame. Natuke joonistasime ja kirjutasime. Harjutasime Love’ga breaktantsu ning möllasime Kenzie’ga (Caroline’ pisikese tütrega). Kõik lennukid, kukerpallitamised, erinevate esemete loopimised ja muidu ringi jooksmised sai ära tehtud ja väsimatul plikal ei saanud kuidagi isu täis. Vaid ühe päevaga võitsime nii väga vaikse ja tagasihoidliku ema kui ka muidu energilise, aga ilmselt siiski võõraste suhtes väheke umbuskliku tüdruku usalduse. Meie omad ütlesid, et Caroline muutus isegi liiga avatuks, rääkides väga palju isiklikku kohe korraga välja.

Teise päeva õhtul otsustasime Marianni ja Justisega linna minna hoolimata, et kohe, kohe pimedaks läheb. Vot see oli lahe. Öine linn on kaks korda huvitavam kui päevane. Algul läksime ühte uhkemasse pubisse, kus rikkamad kohalikud õhtut veedavad. Alguseks see sobis, sest oli mõnus ennast natuke mugavamalt tunda kui muidu. Aga hinnad olid kõrged (siiski mitte Eesti ega Euroopa mõistes) ja seal ei saanud just eriti õiget Aafrika tunnet sisse. Seepärast läksime varsti ühte tavapärasemasse pisikeses majadevahelises käigus olevasse piljardipubisse. Seal oli elav muusika ja rahvas tantsis ikka täiega. Meie saime ka kohe tähelepanu keskmeks. Igaüks tahtis meiega tutvuda ja midagi küsida või rääkida. Me läksime baarileti juurde, mis oli algul kohalike poolt blokeeritud, aga kohe tuli ruumi tagant otsast üks tüüp, kes tõmbas rahvast eest ära, öeldes midagi a’la: „Laske Wazungu ostma“. Wazungu on suahiili keeles valged inimesed ja seda öeldakse meile pidevalt.. see ei ole halva tähendusega. Saime õlled ja läksime istusime lauda ühe kohaliku kõrvale. Rääkisime mõnda aega temaga, aga aja edenedes hakkas aina enam huvilisi meie ümber kogunema. Baari turvamehed ajasid osa neist eemale, aga lõpuks muutus siiski asi ka ebameeldivaks. Siiski oleme oma otsusega sinna minna väga rahul ning ilmselt läheme ka tagasi. Küll varsti meiega ära harjutakse.

Õhtul ehtis Helen mind oma ehetega ja sõime vanaema tehtud kaerahelbe küpsiseid, mille ma kaasa võtsin ning rääkisime oma esmastest muljetest.

Täna on siis kolmas päev. Joshua näitas meile linnas olulisi kohti. Lõunal käisime Chick Innis söömas, kus mina ja Mariann proovisime üht kohalikku maisijahust rahvustoitu – Ugalit kanaga. Ugali ise on suhteliselt maitsetu pudru, aga seda kastetakse kanakastmesse ja pressitakse sibulate ning porganditega salatisse. Selle söömine toimub traditsionaalselt kätega, mis on tegelikult lahe. Ugali mulle väga tegelikult ei maitsenud ja kana on siin alati väga veidralt lõigatud nii, et liha on kontide vahelt ülikeeruline kätte saada. Ah jaa.. kui me linnas ringi liikusime, siis üks pisike poiss hakkas meile järgi käima. Algul kerjas meilt raha, aga nähes, et seda ei saa, vantsis meiega pool päeva ikkagi kaasas kuni sai lõpuks koos meiega süüa. Algul tundus veidi ebameeldiv, et ta kõikjale meile järgnes, aga lõpuks hakkas täitsa kahju temast. Ja ilma temata oleksin ma ka võib-olla oma kaabu restosse unustanud. Muide esimene asi mida Wesley, meie peamine kohalik koordineerija mulle ütles, kui ta mind lennujaamas nägi, et väga hea kaabu, kaitseb mind väga hästi päikese eest.Ühel Rootsi neiul hakkaski juba esimesel päeval just ilmselt päikesepistest ja kuumusest paha.

Okey aga jätkame meie tänase päevaga Eldis. Pärast sööki ootasime paari tüüpi autodega, et minna rugby võistlust vaatama. Ootamise ajal üritas üks mees Love’le oma tütart naiseks sebida. Väga naljakas oli. Nojah, tüdrukud on pidevalt mustade meeste huvi all, ning aegajalt üritatakse nendega telefoninumbreid vahetada. Nonii, tüübid autodega jõudsid kohale. Kõige hip-hopimad poisid linnas. Meie auto jäi teepeal seisma. Autojuhile tundus kusjuures rohkem probleemiks olevat, et muusika vait jäi. Varsti hõikas ta teeäärest mehed autot lükkama, sest wazungu loomulikult ei peaks ju autot nügima. Staadionil oli ka kamp mingeid naljakaid hip-hop tüüpe, kes pidevalt kõige üle nalja tegid. Joshua ütles, et kõik hullult tahavad meie tähelepanu ja meiega rääkida või mida iganes teha. See on kusjuures nii seepärast, et pärast 2008. aasta rahutusi ei tule siia kanti eriti valgeid. Seega meie siia saabumine on suht erakordne sündmus – kuigi siin on mõned valged üliõpilased Ameerikast ja Inglismaalt, sportlased treenimas ja mõned valged ehituse peal, siis meie tulek on siiski osalt nagu märgiks, et Eurooplased julgevad uuesti siia tulla. Nende enne mainitud tüüpidega loopisime pärast ka ise palli ja sai ka põhimõtteliselt kokku lepitud, et teeme millalgi jalgpalli matši.

Koju sõitsime pisikese kastiga autos, mis tähendas, et osa, kaasa arvatud mina, sõitsime kastis. See on siin väga tavapärane. Mulle väga meeldis. Senistel sõitudel olin alati kuskil teiste vahel olnud ja seepärast ei ole saanud autost pilte teha. Samuti on aeg ajalt probleeme olnud tänavatel kõndides piltide tegemisega, sest mitte kõigile ei meeldi, kui valge neid pildile jäädvustab. See päev sain päris häid pilte, aga hilisema lisana tekstile peab ütlema, et head pildid küll, aga kuhugile üles panna neid ikka ei saa. Lugege täpsemalt järgmisest postitusest.

Õhtul oli meil siis sünnipäevade pidu. Küünlad, viiruk, rumm, kitarr ja meie oma laulud. Igati lahe oli.

Üldiselt on hakanud mulle siin üha enam meeldima. Tunnen ennast väga koduselt. Rohkemgi kui Eestis. Hommikuse duššiga on veel probleeme ja toiduga pole harjunud, aga need on väikesed probleemid, mis aja jooksul ka lahenduse leiavad. Muidu on aga rohkemgi kui tahta võiks. Muide Caroline tegi õhtuks samuti Ugalit kanaga (sest see ongi kõige tavalisem toit siin). Algul võtsin päevase kogemuse tõttu vähe, aga tuli välja, et ka maitsetut asja annab paremini teha. Lõpuks võtsin kolm korda juurde. Kõht oli ka tühi muidugi.

Nüüd kui seda peatükki lõpetan, on neljanda päeva hommik. Ärkasin enne kui keegi teine. Varsti peaks mõningatega meist jooksma minema – hakkame siin korralikult trenni tegema. Täna plaanisime endale vabapäeva. Isegi kirikusse, kuhu meid väga viia tahetakse, seekord ei lähe. Muide siin on kirikutes täiesti otseses mõttes peod. Eelmisel õhtul kui koju tulime, kuulsime valju muusikat ja hullu peomelu, aga lõpuks avastasime, et see tuli kirikust. Homme peaksime siis tööle hakkama. Paar tükki meist läheb kuhugile eemale kooli õpetama. Üks peaks Mariann olema, ehk saan ennast teiseks sokutada. Kuigi ma igatseksin seltskonda (jah, nädalavahetustel saab muidugi majja tagasi, aga nädala sees elaksime seal) ja Eldoreti linna. Teisalt on mulle Mariann meeldima hakanud. Loomulikult.. sest ta on punapea, tedretähnidega, väga hea kehavormiga ja igati mulle meeldiva ja osalt minuga sarnase iseloomuga ja kui läheks tema, hakkaksin ka temast puudust tundma. Ometi oleks vast parem kui ma temasse päris ära ei armuks, sest temal on Eestis oma noormees ning see muudaks meie elu siingi keerulisemaks. Eks näis, igal juhul on hea temaga suhelda ja juhul kui millalgi üksildus või masendus peale tikub, siis temale toetuda. Heleni ja Carlose vahel tundub ka midagi tekkivat ning Helenile tundub vist, et ma olen armukade, aga tegelikult ma vahel lihtsalt nii-öelda kiusan neid.

Hullult palju oleks kirjutada. Kogu aeg tuleb mingeid uusi detaile meelde. Täiesti juhuslikke. Näiteks, et meil kasvab õues suur sõnajalapuu ja, et Keenias on kõikjal lehmad: tänavatel (ok.. jah mitte kesklinnas nagu see on Indias, aga siiski), maisipõllulapikestel jne. Roosad lilled hekkidel. Kuu tekitab öösel peaaegu sama häid kontrastseid varjusid nagu linnas lambipostid, aga linn on siiski valgust ja värve täis. Ringi trallitav laps majas on väga hea tujutõstja ja ei lase kunagi igavust tunda. Aafrika on täis helisid (nii looduse kui a inimtsivilisatsiooni tekitatuid), lõhnasid ja Aafrika on ka täis tundeid. Mitte ükski suhtlus ei toimu stoiliselt. Avalikus kohas küll vist ei ole kombeks emmata, aga vähemalt inimest kohates, temast lahkudes ja mõnikord ka jutu sees surutakse kätt, naeratatakse ning antakse edasi häid soove. Isegi kui sa tänavalastele raha ei anna, on võimalik, et nad tahavad sind teretada ja endiselt jäävad nad sõbralikeks. Pidevalt tõstetakse pöidlaid küsimaks, kas kõik on hästi ja oodatakse loomulikult samasugust žesti vastu.

Muide ma olen siin surunud üpris räpaste poisikeste kätt, joonud kraanivett, aga vähemalt seni pole midagi juhtunud. Vastupidiselt näiteks Helen, kes pärast iga veidi kahtlasema inimese käepigistust desinfitseerivat vedelikku kätele peale hõõrub, ega pole peale pudelivee muud joonud, on tänaseks kõhulahtisuse saanud.

Kui ma selle postitan, on mul tegelikult ka juba järgmine ja ülejärgmine postitus paberil kirjas, aga ma ei jõua kõike korraga arvutisse toksida. Samuti olen ma hakanud kahtlema oma idees kahes keeles kirjutada, kuna see on tõsiselt suure aja ja energia kuluga. Seega järgmise postituseni!